86 Smoker Craft Challenger floor replace

Bow Guy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2013
Messages
122
No Title

Ski well bracket and braces installed... Removed all the screws,drain tubes, rear ladder, ski rope eyes and other assorted bolts... now for the boat load of screws on the inside of the splash tray... and then hopefully the transom will come out easily... the two corners of the tran wood look the worst the rest looks pretty solid so I'm keeping my fingers crossed it stays together for a template.

Woodonglass, I will be covering the floor with 1/2" foam locking foam squares for cushion and heat insulation and will be removeable for cleaning.. after I install all the side panels, seats, consoles, rear tank and battery sliding doors etc.. I will install the foam squares so the fit snug and won't move and still have access to hed ski locker.

Any input on the plastic drains tubes?? or should I just go with the aluminum ones that I removed..

Thanks for the input everyone!!
 

Attachments

  • photo237028.JPG
    photo237028.JPG
    28.6 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237029.JPG
    photo237029.JPG
    24.6 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237030.JPG
    photo237030.JPG
    29 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237031.JPG
    photo237031.JPG
    34 KB · Views: 1

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Hello there Bow Guy, nice thread ya got going!

I think you are going to find that it is good that you are removing the inner transom board, I am guessing from one of the pics you posted the bottom of the board is rotten. Maybe I am wrong, and you will see once you pull it out. As for the actual drains, I would use the aluminum version, and not the plastic version. The aluminum version is easy to "crimp" into place with the proper crimping tool and the parts are very inexpensive from the online store starting with A.

Just my $.02.....

I will tag along, if you dont mind....

Frey
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
I would use AL and no need for an expensive tool, make your own flange tool.

flaring_tool_240.gif
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Not sure what all you're ordering but ifit's just the tubes then the call will only save you a few cents on them. Bigger orders it's a win win and the people answering the phones are super.
 

Bow Guy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2013
Messages
122
No Title

Transom wood is out, was not easy but managed to salvage 3/4 of it. Picked up the plywood, glue, Resto Spar Varnish & Resto Topside paint.. Got the plywood sketched out for cutting and holes marked for drilling.. Will do fitting before any drilling and glueing. The rear aluminum backing plate to the transom came in handy for the template.

Anyone know about Bimini Tops? my boat has a track on the inside of both the gunnels and eyelets front and rear, wondering if I can use the aftermarket Bimini.
 

Attachments

  • photo237107.JPG
    photo237107.JPG
    30.3 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237108.JPG
    photo237108.JPG
    30.5 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237109.JPG
    photo237109.JPG
    32.3 KB · Views: 1

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
I would've removed that splashwell, makes the job way easier in and out. Are there are cracks in the splashwell? Did you get a good look at the knee brace to make sure there weren't any cracks in it? If the transom was compromised with rot you have a very high probability that the brace and splashwell are damaged.

Bimini tops are after market add ons, not something that was original equipment from SC.
 

Bow Guy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2013
Messages
122
The wood for the transom is all cut out and fitted and glued together..

I would've removed that splashwell, makes the job way easier in and out. Are there are cracks in the splashwell? Did you get a good look at the knee brace to make sure there weren't any cracks in it? If the transom was compromised with rot you have a very high probability that the brace and splashwell are damaged.

Bimini tops are after market add ons, not something that was original equipment from SC.

There are no cracks in the splashwell or the knee brace, the boat sat for several years outside uncovered and full of water, guessing reason for rot (07 was the last time the boat was registered).To remove the splashwell I would have to drill out solid rivets and also remove both gunnels, just more unnecessary work and materials. The new transom will slide in like a piece of bread in a toaster... lol

I was just wondering If I can use the brackets that are already installed on the boat for a aftermarket Bimini top?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Hows the inside of the transom skin look, corrosion or pitting?

You should be able to find bimini hardware to match.
 

Bow Guy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2013
Messages
122
No Title

Hows the inside of the transom skin look, corrosion or pitting?

You should be able to find bimini hardware to match.

Not too bad, Just sanded it down and gave it a coat of rusto top side paint where it was painted from the factory.. a little damage where the motor clamps were, I was going to have a new one made but it's not that bad.

If I order a bimini top will it work with the track already there?


New transom & and a fresh coat of paint on the splashwell..
 

Attachments

  • photo237270.JPG
    photo237270.JPG
    32.6 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237271.JPG
    photo237271.JPG
    25.4 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237272.JPG
    photo237272.JPG
    33.1 KB · Views: 1

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
As WM said the bimini is really a universal thing as is the hardware to an extent. Get your hardware for the tracks figured out/found so that can get a good measure of the dimensions you'll need for the bow spacing. Then order your top.

That floor looks great! :rockon:

Ondarvr is the only one I've seen post with real experience saying that AL floors don't get hot in the sun to battle the rest that say they do, so I'm with Woody waiting to hear your experience with them. Either way the bimini will help, the Jet is the first boat I've had one on and I love it. I don't think I'll have another a boat w/o out one.
 

Bow Guy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2013
Messages
122
No Title

Thanks Watermann, here is a picture of what I have on the boat and if the bimini tops will work this setup. there is a slide on both sides. I guess I should have posted the pictures with my question. The boat is 61" from inside of the gunnels. The tops come 54"- 60 & 61-66
 

Attachments

  • photo237308.JPG
    photo237308.JPG
    29 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237309.JPG
    photo237309.JPG
    37.2 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237310.JPG
    photo237310.JPG
    38 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237311.JPG
    photo237311.JPG
    33.4 KB · Views: 1

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
Stick with me this got kinda long,

The Jet had rails on it w/o any hardware that I wanted to use to mount the top. Being lazy about finding the hardware and wanting to have it on and go out I mounted it with the supplied brackets on the topside of the gunwales. When laid down the height of the bows put the mounts about perfectly in the center of the boat so I found that the slides would of been no use in that case. My 18SS already had the top on it when I bought it, is mounted the same and once again I don't see a need for the slides.

A bit of looking and I'm assuming you're looking at the 46" top, so figure out where you want it to lay when down and see where that will put the ends of the bows. If it is the case where you're going to have to use the rails then I would go with the 54-60" as the unsprung bows will be ~ 57" and I think they look and work better if you spread the bows to their final mounting point. I would also swap out the hinge screw for some of these.

If you end up where it looks like the mounts will fall where you can forgo the use of the rails I would keep it simpler and mount it using the topside bracket and in that case I would go with the 61-66" as it should allow some wiggle room and let you mount it w/o springing the bows.

Either way I'd recommend using the metal strapeyes like these mounted topside as under tension they can a be a booger to clipped/unclipped.
 

Bow Guy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2013
Messages
122
No Title

New transom all fitted, sanded and ready for Spar varnish..

if your wondering about the caution tape, I having solar panels installed and they have the it around the whole house..
 

Attachments

  • photo237378.JPG
    photo237378.JPG
    47.9 KB · Views: 1
  • photo237379.JPG
    photo237379.JPG
    57.4 KB · Views: 1

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Hey there bow guy.....how is that transom on your boat, is it solid?

I reason I ask is that I noticed in the above pics there is some streaking shown on the inside of the transom, I recognize a similar look from my transom, where the wood was gone and reduced to wood pulp....I certainly hope that yours is NOT this way, but thought I should ask...pics from Dec 21st....

Frey
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
Frey
Please check Bow's last post. Cut and fab'd a new transom....
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Aw Carp Bow Guy, I'm Sorry! Nevermind my last post, its been a day!

I didn't notice that I was looking at one of your original posts!:eek: Sorry!

Good work so far, its looking good!

Frey
 
Top