Larson Lapline All American

Drb007

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
240
Sounds so easy when you describe it...I look forward to trying.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Using the plastic makes it easier but it's still a bit challenging when done upside down. Make sure to take care on the resin wet out and use the minimal amount required to wet out the fabric. Neatness counts!!!! Put a thin coat on the keel as well and then place the patch. Use a plastic bondo spreader to smooth it all in place. You'll get the hang of it after the first couple of pieces. I'd use a 2% MEKP mix so the resin will "Kick" a bit faster which will keep it from sagging. You'll have about 15 mins of working time so have everything pre-cut and ready to go. Once you get all set up it really isn't all that bad.;)
 

Drb007

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
240
Some follow up...Larson Co. emailed me back the next day to confirm this is a 1966 All American. I spent some time (minimal) buffing the deck for some therapy. Nice shine for an old boat! I could probably do more if I had the desire, but this suits me fine for now...it's headed down to the barn for the winter anyway.

Does anyone have any tricks to whiten the rub rail?

I'm tempted to paint it... Larson polished.jpg Larson polished1.jpg Larson polished2.jpg Larson rub rail.jpg
 

Bonus Check

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2015
Messages
162
Use acetone on the white rub rail. It should clean it up pretty well.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Acetone and then use the Wesley's and some good ole' Comet Cleanser with a green scotch brite pad. It'll look like NEW!!!!
 

Drb007

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
240
Well, acetone barely did anything...will try the other recommendations this weekend and see what works.
 

Bonus Check

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2015
Messages
162
Well, acetone barely did anything...will try the other recommendations this weekend and see what works.

Did you just rub the acetone on it or use something abrasive like a Magic Eraser to apply the Acetone to the rub rail? The rub strip is either rubber or vinyl. Acetone has to be rubbed into the pores to clean it.
 

Drb007

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
240
So things may be changed a bit in the voting for the Larson vs the Steury. I just got a 1970 Sea King in pristine condition, so now we have 3 boats. As we look at all of our options, the Larson may be the best economical choice.
 

Drb007

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
240
No Title

We finally have made some progress getting in to working on the Larson. It needs a new floor, so out come the seats, side rails, tank, vinyl, etc. The windshield will need to be replaced, as there are two large areas of cracking deep in the plastic, right in front of the drive and passenger. So that came out too. We ripped out a bit of the floor to see what is under there. HUGE fiberglass stringers. Now, in comparison to her Steury, which had one wooden stringer, a 1x4 on edge, this Larson has FOUR beefy fiberglass stringers, all pretty close to each other.
We will get the rest of the floor out this month, and then start on the repairs.
Now, we need advice on getting the steering wheel off. Tried a gear puller with no result. Don't think heat is a good idea. Thoughts?
 

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Willyclay

Captain
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
3,240
Thanks for the update. Have you verified the fiberglass stringers are hollow? Most manufacturers used something for a core in the stringers which may be waterlogged/rotten depending on the material; i.e. cardboard, foam, wood, etc. IMHO you should address that situation first. Also, regarding the steering wheel removal, it appears to badly damaged/cracked in your post #12. Is it your intent to save it for reuse? I would recommend a penetration fluid like PB Blaster on the shaft to break the corrosion. The most tried method is to place the retainer nut back on the shaft and hand-tighten to where the nut and the end of the shaft are flush. Strike the nut/shaft with a hammer while from a sitting position press your knees behind the wheel. Good luck!
 

Drb007

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
240
I am quite certain the stringers are hollow. The factory literature describes them as such, and I spoke with a guy who had cut one of these boats up for disposal and shared pictures of the cross sections. Hollow, and very thick glass. There appears to be no foam in this boat. The literature explains that the air in the stringers acts as floatation.

As for the steering wheel, we have intentions to restore it.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
Good news on the stringers.

If theres room additional flotation foam between the stringers would be a good idea.

Good luck
 

57whitehouse

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 18, 2007
Messages
519
I haven't been on iboats in years, but just popped back on because I'm starting a restore on my dad's old '66 Larson All American. It's the same color as yours but has an inboard/outboard 4cyl chevy II engine.

I recoment the Larson because of the beefy hull and smooth ride. Larson is known for the "million bubble ride".
There was originaly foam in between the stringers. My dad tore his floor out 40 years ago and the foam was water soaked. I was only 10 at the time so I didn't remember about the stringers being air filled. No need to tear them out and fix them, it seems.
I love the way the color is coming back on your Larson. There are some options you can give your boat to spruce up the appearance. We have an horn in the center of the hood and it looks GREAT!!
 

Drb007

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
240
57whitehouse:
Glad to hear you are saving your dad's boat! I would love to have an heirloom boat, but I guess that is what my daughter and I are creating...
I'd love to see pictures of yours with the horn, as that is something we want to add. In fact, that is how we came across our Skagit...we were just hoping to get the horn off of it!
Interesting that you remember foam between the stringers. I would swear this is the original floor, and there is no evidence of any foam. Huh.
As for the color, it is going to look fine, and will keep a vintage look. I am having to resist the urge to go all in and completely redo the boat, paint included. I think for my daughter's first boat, leaving some age marks will be less stressful than cringing every time she pulls up to the dock.
Our bid dilemma right now is the seat covering. It is right at the point where I am not sure we can reasonably salvage it. I fear that getting them redone will completely erase the character they have.
For now we stay focused on the floor and hull/keel repair.
 

coolbri70

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
1,554
I like your Larson:thumb:, your stringers look different from the others i have seen. They are usually 2, 10" wide foam filled, and capped with a plank, that go front to back. i actually thought they were rotten logs at first:lol:
 

Drb007

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
240
We did a little more work today. We cut the fiberglass floor out, and then lifted the rotted plywood out. It was wet and rotten from the front to the back. It was so wet at the rear of the boat stern that I really began to question my plan of not doing the transom. Sure enough, with a less hopeful eye, I do see a bit of flexing. In fact, there is a crack in the splash well. I took the motor and transom trim off and drilled some holes...very wet wood. So, this just turned into a full restore. We started stripping everything, and hope to get the deck off this week. We will do the floor and transom, and then flip the hull to fix the keel and paint it. We will be happier in the end knowing that everything was done right. IMG_5430.JPG
 
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