1967 Starcraft resto, code name "On Holiday"

dpotter

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Oct 4, 2015
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Oh, I found a late 60-s holiday I/O on a tandem trailer. Not sure I want another boat, but I may not be able to resist. Maybe there's a reason I'm single. ha
 
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jbcurt00

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Rob (Watermann) did paint the bottom of the boat. Some sort of an aluminum paint.
 

dpotter

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Ah, Thanks, I appreciate that. i thought I remembered Glen suggesting he left it bare. I'll have to look into it. Mine has the paint missing on the front of the keel due to beaching. I was trying to avoid that look.
 

dpotter

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alum paint.jpg Page 35 of his thresd. Thanks JB.



"So here's the plan, tonight I shot the first coat on the bottom of the Chief below the seam, including the bow and keel plate with some of the industrial/tractor alkyd in aluminum color. 16oz paint, 1 oz catalyst hardener and 2 oz naphtha. It went on like silk, filling all the little scratches and pits."
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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2 quarts I'm thinking, but.... it really is a waste of time, effort and money to paint the bottom. Not sure I would do it again unless I have to. That pic was probably the last time anyone will see it see it again unless you crawl under there or get run over. :lol:

If/when I do another boat, my plans for the bottom is to strip clean and walk away.
 

Pcolafisher

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I've been lurking and reading for the past few days. I have a project boat to go through once I finish both bathrooms and the kitchen, interspersed with projects at my daughter's farm and the other daughter's beach cottage. I am curious about the paint stripper you are using. My 22 ft Islander has sound paint but not a color I will use for the future.

Cheers,
Craig
 

dpotter

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Welcome to the starmada Craig. If your paint is sound, you don't want to use a stripper. Scuff to a good surface, prime and paint. You will need an etching primer if you go to aluminum. That goes on as a fine mist. Then go to a standard primer and paint it to your favorite colors. Hope that helps. I had to do mine all the way down due to multiple layers of unknown quality paint. It was easier to take it all off than to find the last good layer. There has been lots of strippers tried on these tin boats with different results. I picked up a spray can of aircraft stripper at Napa to try and it works good so far. One tip if you do it this way is to apply it and then cover with plastic to let work without drying out. It takes more paint off with a single application this way. Start a thread and show us lots of pictures.

Doug
 
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GA_Boater

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So that's what one looks like. :rolleyes:

Good looking hunkowood.
 

lckstckn2smknbrls

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Thanks WM, I'll do some practice with that. I have a small tear in the rib on one side. I knew I would need something like MT or JB for that.

Oh on the subject of projects dying at this stage. I can't imagine anyone stopping at this point. It seems that I'm committed from here. Maybe it's just that I should committed. ha I'm even putting my Nautique up for sale when the snow goes away. The kids don't ski anymore and the grandkids can ski behind this.

Is the tear in the rib at the end of the rib?
 

Pcolafisher

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Doug - thanks for the response! Mine is an '86 but has to wait for me to finish the master bath, tear out hall bath, jack up center of our 76 year old house to level, rebuild hall bath, and renovate kitchen. I retired almost a year ago and there is still not enough time in a day!!! I will start a thread as soon as I get started.

Cheers, Craig
 

dpotter

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20160209_155018_resized.jpg
Is the tear in the rib at the end of the rib?

It's the same location as the 2 corners that broke off the top. When I drill through the sides of the brace for the aluminum angle it won't matter any more. I'm still thinking on how to do additional bracing. I'll likely put a piece of angle in the splash well area that the motor mounts will bolt through and additional screws into the transom. You can see the crack by the lower bolt hole.
 
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dpotter

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Glue is oozing out everywhere. I guess I got enough on there. Tomorrow , I can trim to a good fit and get on to drilling and sealing it. 20160210_101231_resized.jpg
 

lckstckn2smknbrls

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It's the same location as the 2 corners that broke off the top. When I drill through the sides of the brace for the aluminum angle it won't matter any more. I'm still thinking on how to do additional bracing. I'll likely put a piece of angle in the splash well area that the motor mounts will bolt through and additional screws into the transom. You can see the crack by the lower bolt hole.

So it's the knee brace not one of the ribs.
 
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dpotter

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Oct 4, 2015
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Test fit is good, grinding down a few high spots is easy with this log fitters wheel. 20160211_082100_resized.jpg
 
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