1990 Sea Nymph FM160B Restoration

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Here's the pics....
IMG_1791_zpsalpbg1wo.jpg

IMG_1789_zps7cwa2y8x.jpg

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I added a little "Bling" to the cowl with the "60" number. The re-pop decals were "playschool-ish" and did not look good in my opinion, so I painted the emblem the same color as the cowl, and then sanded, cleaned, and prepped the surface. I placed metal tape over the numbers on the flat part of the emblem, and used the tool provided from the decal provider to press the tape onto and into the emblem. Once adhered good, and air bubbles removed, I simply trimmed around the exterior of the emblem with an exacto blade. I think it turned out real good, looks metallic (because it is....duh!), and took very little time to do!
Here is an example of the tape that I used:


Frey
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Is that the best you could do??? Man,I think you should consider looking for a good used cowling. That looks totally Amatuerish. I wouldn't want that to be seen on my boat!!!!

Oh Wait, I forgot to take my Meds this morning!!! What was I thinking. Just a sec!!! :nerd:Ok Now I'm much better!!! WOW!!! Now that's some mighty nice work!!!:eagerness: I'm certain you're gunna get some nice comments when you hit the ramp later on this season!!!!:eyebrows:
 
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BWR1953

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
5,802
Awesome job! Very clever use of that metal tape on the horsepower emblem. :thumb:
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Is that the best you could do??? Man,I think you should consider looking for a good used cowling. That looks totally Amatuerish. I wouldn't want that to be seen on my boat!!!!

Oh Wait, I forgot to take my Meds this morning!!! What was I thinking. Just a sec!!! :nerd:Ok Now I'm much better!!! WOW!!! Now that's some mighty nice work!!!:eagerness: I'm certain you're gunna get some nice comments when you hit the ramp later on this season!!!!:eyebrows:

Thanks WOG! I appreciate the humor! More to come this weekend hopefully....

Frey
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Awesome job! Very clever use of that metal tape on the horsepower emblem. :thumb:

Thanks BWR! I kept thinking that there must be a better way rather than using the decals I didn't like or hand painting! The metallic tape worked out perfect AND only took 5 minutes each one!!!

Frey
 
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Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Hey guys I think my boat smiled a little this weekend....got a little done! I have a couple of questions, so please read down below.... :)

Despite some terrible weather this weekend, I did manage to get some replacement flooring cut and sealed
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This flooring was sealed with the WOG formula and followed with 2 coats of straight Spar, turned out pretty! lol.

After complete drying I was able to get it placed in the boat under the metal structure in the stern of the boat. I began mocking up the rear again to see fitment of all the parts and noticed something....
IMG_1819_zps8n3hgthq.jpg
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See the gap there between the splash well and the transom? The PO just placed a pound of silicone in there to fill this gap, obviously I prefer NOT to do that, what choices do I have? There is as much as 1/4" gap in some spots.....Would placing some 4200/5200 with an aluminum rod (1/4") work to fill the gap and keep water from going between the well and the transom? Looking for ideas? :confused:

It is difficult to see in the pic but the drains for the splash well are there too just to keep it from being too easy to fix!

The splashwell and transom "re-painting" turned out nice! Huge improvement there....

Frey
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Are the drain tubes in the way of the SW seating up against the transom? Pics are tough to tell but kinda looks that way, like the SW is too high up..
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
While they are in the way, they are only slightly in the way.....lol. The splash well does not seat against the drains, it doesn't go that far. I am convinced that it has been this was since the factory, and the design of the splash well is what prevents it from seating up against the transom fully. The sides of the splash well (the furthest ends) are what prevent the SW from seating fully, and redesigning a new one is something I don't really wish to do. I could put the 3/8" hunk of aluminum back in to take up the gap and provide more motor stability as an idea. I just realized that I don't have a pic of it, but I will place the aluminum plate back in and take a photo to explain better, that may be my best option?

Frey
 

bonz_d

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
5,274
Frey I have to agree that something just doesn't look right. That pan should be flush against the transom unless something is missing. Is that pan 3 pcs.? I have never seen one were the bottom of the pan was above the drain holes. Maybe some pictures from a different angle would help.
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Thanks Watermann and Bonz. I did find that something was not quite right. The splash well was not lining up properly with the transom bolts and they were preventing it from seating properly to the floor and to the transom itself. What is kind of weird is that it almost seems that the flooring is slightly up higher than originally which is also complicating matters. The new flooring is 1/2" just the same as original, and the foam I placed below is at the same height...weird. I do think that somehow I have bent the splash well when cleaning it up causing it to lose its shape. I did get some work done last night, nothing worthy of new photos, but most importantly I did come up with a plan for how I will deal with this. Time for some "interesting" engineering work :eek:. Probably wont get anything completed the rest of this week, work travel and my son's baseball is more important....but barely. Lol!

Frey...
 

Acpics80

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 17, 2016
Messages
41
Hi Frey!

Now I know why your name sounded familiar when you first responded to my thread, I was reading yours a few weeks ago trying to learn how to rebuild a transom. I also love your work on that engine cowl, it looks great! I'll definitely be following along on your thread to see the progress on another SN!

Cheers!
Acpics80
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Thanks Acpics! I have continued to make progress on the SN! Flooring is almost completely in! I have had to get creative with the replacement flooring, due to the fact that I cant get large sheets in at one time. It would appear that the replacement flooring will be in 6 pieces! Haven't taken pics lately, but I will and will update the project as well.

More coming soon!

Frey
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Hello everybody! Got an update: Floor is slowly going back in!

Sealed each floor piece with WOG formula and 3 coats of straight spar. Now fastening each piece with stainless steel screws and a dab of Marine GOOP on each screw, just for fun :cool:.
IMG_1834_zps0suqc5dt.jpg
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These screws go thru the transom skin and into the new transom core. GOOP sealed here too!

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Cleaned up and final painted the splashwell after final installation. I decided to put the 3/8" aluminum stock back for additional support, can you have too much support?

IMG_1833_zpsgefdpgri.jpg


The project is moving in the right direction! I'm tired of being in the "dry dock", time to move toward gettin' wet and being next to a dock! :lol:

Frey
 

Frey0357

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
313
Coming together nicely :thumb:

Thanks Watermann! So last night I finished up my flooring installation, super excited about it - seems solid! Now that I am working on the front casting deck replacement, I am also looking forward to carpet. How large of a notched trowel is suggested, and how much material should be on the newly sealed wooden flooring to get good adhesion for the carpet to the floor? I don't want to do this part more than once!

Oh and I have another question regarding staples for the underside of the front casting deck. Stainless staples seem tough to find, is there a real benefit of using these or are they even needed? I should explain my question a little more....On my casting deck I have 3 storage lids that are connected with hinges, and I intend to carpet the hinged lids and the casting deck. I will wrap the carpet around or through the storage cut out, but then how to hold in place? Originally the carpet had staples to hold it in place while the crappy glue they used became dry.....

thanks in advance for your help!

Frey
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Regular staples will last a few years before they start rusting out. I use SS staples and the only place I can find them is at home depot. But the only place I've used carpet is on trailer bunks.
 
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