1977 holiday 14ft refurb

[Timpg]

The floor is just dry fit for now. I still have to flip it back over to paint. I will use foam board or noodles for flotation, haven't decided yet. Going to put down padding and carpet, probably one of the very last things I do. Didn't plan on sealing the plywood with anything... was told it was unnecessary for marine grade plywood.

 

[jbcurt00]

IMO, un necessary is inaccurate, esp using carpet

Several coats of Spar varnish on all edges.and faces is a good idea esp w carpet that will get wet.

Dont use noodles, they arent of much flotation value and arent closed cell.

Why padding and carpet? Dont think I've seen anyone use padding under marine carpet...

 

[Timpg]

Thanks for the info on Coating with varnish and not using noodles.

Padding and carpet because I believe in being barefoot on a boat and I want it to be ridiculously comfortable on your feet/knees.

Marine carpet padding: http://www.bassboatseats.com/produc...ding?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googleshopping

 

[jbcurt00]

Interesting, I'd try and make both the pad and carpet removeable so any water that gets under it can dry

 

[bonz_d]

Tim it's coming along nicely I'd say.

Indeed seal that ply with something or you'll be back doing it in a few years. The spar will work OK though there is another method that works even better and isn't that much more costly. Do a search for the "Old Timers Formula". I now use it religiously as I feel it works that well.

On an old Lund that I'd refinished a few years ago I used 14oz marine carpet with the rubber backing. Was easy to walk on barefoot, dries quickly and didn't add a lot of weight.. Also would second the foam board as the easiest, cheapest and best way to go.

 

[Woodonglass]

I can see the pics just fine!!! Since you stated this thread is for future iBoaters to learn from, here's a few things... SE primer only needs to be applied in very light coats. You should be able to see the sub-surface below when the coat is dry. Heavy coats are not necessary. You Then follow up with the recommended primer for the finished color coats.

Here's the Old Timers Recipe for sealing your wood... Marine Grade Plywood Rots just like any other plywood. Just might take a bit longer...
I recently read somewhere about a guy that sewed pockets in the edges of his carpeting to hold rare earth magnets He then Glued others into recessed holes along the perimeter of the boat @1 ft intervals and attached his carpet that way. Those little magnets are extremely powerful and will hold the carpet in place with NO PROBLEM In fact it takes a LOT of force to pull them loose!!! Just something to think about.

 

[Timpg]

Wow! I really like that idea about the rare earth magnets! thanks for the formula for the old timers formula. I will give it a shot.

 

[Timpg]

And the work continues... Coated the floor in the "old timers formula above, and that should definitely do the trick. Thanks guys. I cut the holes in the dash and coated that in the formula too. I then wrapped my dash in new padded vinyl, and then re-installed back in the boat. What a pain in the butt. Anyway, it is coming a long swimmingly. Right now I've got it back upside down and since it is going to warm up over the next week I'm hoping to get a layer of pre-kote on there. I'm looking forward to painting. The dramatic change makes up for the monotony of sanding/prep work.