O'Day Mariner Sailboat Restoration

Scott Danforth

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another ratchet strap into the keel slot and secured by the keel pivot bolt. use that to ratchet it vertical
 

fhhuber

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Well... the trouble getting it inverted points to the boat being hard to turn turtle on the water, which should be good news.

Hard to know for sure what to do on lifting/rigging without being there. We can't see the attachment points and evaluate just how strong they should be.

That swing keel pivot should be pretty strong to take the load of the heavy swing keel and the forces from sailing. So that sounds like a good idea for helping force the roll

Trying to control the boat with just one chainfall rigged as described post 137, the strap to the chainfall used to prevent sudden over-rotation might be complicating things by tightening too early, preventing it from rolling enough to go on over...

If I was doing it... I'd probably want 3 more chainfalls. looking to hold the "top" side up with 2, running the other 2 chains around the keel to the (boat's) top of the lower gunwale and thus be able to force the roll in a very controlled manner.

Don't give the thing a chance to move one inch that you didn't move it on purpose.

Don't let those straps have a chance to crawl off the tube (pipe?) holding the boat up... that rig has me worried as I don't see anything keeping one strap from coming off the end of the tube.
Too many ropes is almost enough...
Don't want you squished.
 

tpenfield

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Yea, ideally, I'd have another chain hoist, but I was hopeful that the roller strap rigging would do the trick. My biggest issue is that the boat was not up high enough when it was right side up and as it rolled, the port rub rail came to rest on the floor. At that point it was no longer pivoting around its bow/stern center line, but rather it was pivoting on the rub rail. Sort of throws things off from plan "A". As is, the boat just needs to rotate its center of gravity past where the rub rail is touching the floor. I gave it a bunch of support along the rail so as not to crunch it.

The boat is about 1100 lbs as is, so it is not a big load for the rigging. I think Scott's idea might do the trick.

If you guys hear a loud noise, I probably means I got it to roll . . . Or something broke :eek:
 
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alldodge

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Wonder if the beer and friends suggestion is looking any better
 

tpenfield

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As the Boat Turns . . .

Well a couple pictures are probably worth more words than I can write . . .
IMG_7964.jpg


IMG_7965.jpg


I have got the boat rolled over to well beyond the balance point and it is still reluctant to 'roll'. I tried a variation of Scott's idea (not shown in these pictures), which is to hoist at the keel trunk, and it rolled the boat a bit more, but also started to lift it . . . once it lifted the boat re-positioned itself to a lesser angle of lean . . . so defeating the purpose. So, I have been trying to raise the port side rail to compensate.

It appears that the straps wrapped around the rollers are binding quite a bit and not allowing the boat to 'rotate' as planned. :facepalm:

I started to lift at the rubrail (port rail) to get the boat to roll from the bottom instead of the top. That seems to be working, but it was getting late, so I called it a day. I'll be back at it tonight and the plan will be to continue to lift at the rail. Hopefully the rollers will start to budge and the process will complete itself (with me running in the other direction :D )
 
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alldodge

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What about leaving it as-is? You can get to the bottom and work standing up instead of bent over. When done roll it back over and do the strap places
 

tpenfield

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What about leaving it as-is? You can get to the bottom and work standing up instead of bent over. When done roll it back over and do the strap places

I have certainly thought about doing exactly that more than once. Of course, with my luck the thing would not want to roll back where it came from :rolleyes:

I'd actually like to get the boat 'turtled' and re-do the roller rigging in a better manner for the return trip. We shall see, as I may decide to go with your idea.
 

Scott Danforth

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What about leaving it as-is? You can get to the bottom and work standing up instead of bent over. When done roll it back over and do the strap places

I would agree, or find a local hockey team and offer them a keg for turning your boat over
 

tpenfield

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As the boat continues to turn . . .

Almost there, but it sure is reluctant to turn. I think I will need chain hoists positioned over the rails for the return trip. Pulling from the center line of the boat is not all that effective in the later stages of lifting,.
IMG_7987.jpg


IMG_7988.jpg


If I had a couple of shorter boat stands, I'd be done. The boat just does not want to roll . . . So, I'll give it another go in the morning. Then it will have to sit for a few days while I play on the power boat.
 
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tpenfield

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Success !!! :D

IMG_7993.jpg



IMG_7994.jpg


Definitely the forces of friction were over ruling the force of gravity throughout this process. The straps and the rollers just did not want to move, due to the amount of weight on them. I was able to hoist the rail up high enough to get a boat stand under the stern area of the boat and then used a 4x4 post to lever the bow rail a bit higher and finally got a second boat stand under the rail near the bow. From then it was a matter of raising the boat stands to level out the boat.

Now I have 4 boat stands under the boat, so I can remove the strap/roller contraption and re-finish the hull bottom. I may try to lower the keel into the keel trunk, since the chain hoist is in about the right place for it.
 

tpenfield

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BTW - As I was turning the boat during the past week or so, small amounts of water continually dripped out from various places onto the floor of the garage. So, I was thinking . . . what a great way to get water out of the structure of a boat . . . flip it upside down. :)
 

tpenfield

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HULL BOTTOM UPDATE:

I took a couple of hours today to start sanding the hull bottom. At closer inspection, I am glad that I chose to turn the boat over, because it has allowed me to get a more detailed look at the hull. What I had thought were mostly chips in the gelcoat turned out to be some blistering as well. . . fairly mild and it looks like most of them have cracked open, which is typical for colder climates.

Here is a picture of some of the blisters. Most of the blisters have cracked open, some have actually chipped. Sanding really reveals the blisters, (as a clean white circle) as most were not readily visible without sanding. IMG_8772.jpg



I am going to open them up and probably fill the worse ones with an epoxy filler, but the barrier coat should take care of most of them.

Here are a few 'opened up'. IMG_8776.jpg


Also, a lot of scratches in the hull, which the barrier coat should take care of.


So, looks like a got a bit more work ahead . . . but restoration work is like that :rolleyes:
 

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tpenfield

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Progress Update:

I have the hull cleaned and sanded (below the waterline). There are about 30 - 40 blisters that I opened up in total. so, those will need to be filled with an epoxy and sanded. then I can do the barrier coat and antifouling paint.
IMG_8780.jpg
 

tpenfield

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Update:

I have made some progress on the hull prep work. I got the bottom sanded and 2 coats of Interprotect 2000 barrier coat on the hull (below the boot stripe) IMG_8860.jpg



I think I'll do a third coat and then a few coats of anti-fouling paint, since it is going in the salt. I plan on using the same AF paint as I use on the powerboat, since it provides a nice slick surface and keeps away the marine growth really well.
 
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