Converting a Closed Bow to an Open Bow Boat

bradmcq

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Aug 31, 2015
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I did a short video of an open bow conversion I did on a closed bow Cobalt. If interested, please see: in the water at Bayview.JPG
 

bradmcq

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Sorry, Newbie here...doesn't look like the video link showed up. Try this:

Mod EDIT: Brad, check your PMs
 
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bradmcq

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Aug 31, 2015
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Did you check out the link to the video? That was about all the pictures I took during the course of the remodel. I am planning to do another one soon...cabins are just too hot during the summer! I will definitely take the time to do more pictures and video on the next one!
 

bradmcq

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Here was a much smaller open bow conversion I did on a '78 Cobalt 19'
 

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Woodonglass

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Looking at your 78' Cobalt conversion, I see no evidence of coating the plywood with any kind of resin or any attachment to the hull with any fiberglass resin or fabric. It's not possible to obtain structurally sound bonds of the new wood components to the existing hull without the use of resin and glass. Without these structural attachments, the hull could be rendered unsafe to use. Also Marine plywood, although stated to be waterproof, will still suffer from rot and decay if exposed to a wet environment over time. Marine paint will extend this time but paint is NOT that good at sealing wood from water penetration.
 

bradmcq

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You bet, the '78 did get resin, then gelcoat over all wood surfaces. I would add that glass over wood will suffer rot and decay over time as well, especially in salt water environments. It just takes a small nick or hole in the glass, and the wood rots from the inside. If you are in an environment with freezing temps, the water trapped in the wood expands which causes even more problems. Building solid fiberglass molds for any changes would certainly be best, but not practical for most of us. A project like this '78 involved taking a $1,500 boat and turning it into a $3,000 boat...by putting $5,000 into her and hundreds of hours! As far as structurally sound, this boat had been beating around the lake for 30 years and you surely felt it. After the remodel, she tightened up and ran out much better.
 

Woodonglass

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I would add that glass over wood will suffer rot and decay over time as well, especially in salt water environments. It just takes a small nick or hole in the glass, and the wood rots from the inside. I

You've got it a bit backwards.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gener...-preserve-wood

Salt water actually slows the rotting process a bit. That's why they still find sunken wooden boats on the ocean bottom from the 1500's still intact. Fresh water boats...Now that's a problem!!!:eek:

It takes a pretty severe gouge in your boat for water to penetrate to the wood core. If you drill into the core then you should always pre-drill and coat the holes and hardware with a good marine sealant to prevent water penetration. Do this and Inspect your boat regularly, Repair the major gouges as soon as you discover them, and your boat will last for decades. Mine has!!!!:D
 

bradmcq

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Aug 31, 2015
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hmmm...not sure the relevancy of the article? Thought we were taking about glass over wood, not old growth timber constructed boats. Anyway, I guess my point is saltwater marine environments can be be much harder on boats than inland lakes. I was part owner and manager of a marina and haul out facility in SE Alaska for most of my career and saw a lot of glass over wood rot issues. I moved down to the lower 48, and inland a bit...much different climate, but I sure don't see near the issues.
 

DeepBlue2010

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The actual point here is that fiberglass main job in boat construction is not to provide water proofing; this is a side effect you get it as bonus.
The main reason for fiberglass is to provide high structural integrity with relatively lighter weight. That is why there are different types/weight varieties of fabrics out there. As someone who was part owner of a marina, I expect you to know that. So, let's skip the salt water, fresh water and sweet water argument because it is irrelevant.

In your video you said ?Fiber glassing everything together was expensive, so I used marine ply, paint and 3M adhesive?. You knew that glassing was required; you deliberately skipped it because you did not want to pay the cost. You also, most likely knew you will be ?offloading? the boat soon.

Again, in your video you said she had a drinking problem and needed to go

But in your post here you said that after the ?conversion? it got lighter and ran better. So we can conclude that it consumed less gas than before and we can also conclude that the fuel issue was known to you before the ?conversion?

Long story short, per our standards here, your ?conversion? building techniques and craftsmanship were substandard. I personally consider it borderline illegal because there is some guy out there now trusting his/his family safety to this superglue based conversion job not knowing that it is an accident just waiting to happen.

If this boat was able to avoid major safety related accident which I pray to God that it will, this wood will not survive for any significant length of time. The water proof label in marine ply doesn?t describe the wood itself, it describes the glue between plies. Again, as a former owner of a marina, I expect you to know that.
 
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jbcurt00

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I have exchanged several messages w Brad. He is aware of my concerns.

His video link was removed because it doesnt show the whole project and makes it appear unsafe.

Brad assures me the boat's structure was sound and left mostly intact, except the bow cover that was removed. That structure was incorporated into his changes.

He also said he made full disclosure to the new owner and provided them w his pix record. The new owner is reportedly enjoying another full boating season.

I encouraged him to dig into other topics and get a better since if how we prefer to document/complete repairs (minor to major) and to continue to contribute his projects. Albeit w more pix and details.

Thanks
 
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