Drain Plug Leak

rochester

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 3, 2004
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34
I have 2001 Sea Ray 180 BR. I get a couple of gallons of water in the bilge if I am out for 4-5 hours. That's a guess, because I run the bilge pump every 2 hours or so until no water comes out. I don't wait for it to come on automatically. No hoses are leaking, and it doesn't appear that there is a leak around the outdrive. At least I don't think so, because I don't detect any water running down the inside of the transom when the boat is in the water, underway, or not.

My best guess is that it is leaking around the housing that contains the drain plug. I say this because the drain plug is very tight, but water still drips from beneath the drain plug when the boat is on the trailer. I don't detect any bubbles around the drain plug when the boat is in the water though, so I'm not sure.


I am pretty handy. Is this something I can repair myself, or would I be better off taking it to a professional?

One of my main concerns is that there is some oil in the bilge from changing the oil filter. I'm wondering if this oil/water mix will cause a problem with adhesives?


I'm thinking that I don't have much to lose, trying to fix it. I should be able to pour some water into the bilge and see if I plugged the leak after I make my fix. Right?

What adhesive would I use to fix this? I have some 3M 4200. Would this work?


Thanks for any help you can provide!
 

JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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Is this the sort of plug you have?

http://www.iboats.com/Seasense-Garb...05300075--session_id.724213190--view_id.56062

If so, you can easily remove the screws holding the flanged part to the boat and pull the part out. Clean the area very well (esp. if you suspect oil contamination) using a detergent and water, and then something like acetone, liberally applied. Then bed the drain in 4200, replace the screws and let it cure.

It is possible that the loose plug could be allowing water in, but it sounds like you're getting quite a bit of water. Hard to say if resealing the drain plug will fix the leak, but it's and easy and cheap first step.

Good luck!
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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How long has this been going on?? Any cracks in the general vicinity of the plug? Will it leak when the boat's docked, or only when under way??

Once the GD is out you should inspect the hole and the inner wood core and if it's damp squirt some Acetone on the wood liberally. This will greatly enhance drying the wood. Once it's dry, treat it with some antifreeze to kill any mold spores etc... then when it's all good and dry in a couple of days, I'd get some 5 min. epoxy and use an acid brush to coat the wood with it to seal it just in case it happens again. Squirt some acetone/antifreeze in the screw holes too!!!

If any of the screw holes are stripped out, rotate the drain plate 1/4 turn and redrill new holes. Fill the old ones with 3M 5200 or Marine Tex. Always coat the new holes and hardware with 3M 4200 when installing.;)
 

rochester

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 3, 2004
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I don't really know how long it has been going on. I didn't notice it until the bilge pump came on when I pulled it out of the water. I've had the boat out about 4-5 times since then. No cracks that I can see or feel. I've checked it out when underway and when anchored, and don't notice any difference.

This set-up has an oil drain hose connected to the plug via a light cable, so when you pull it out you can drain the oil for an oil change.

Should I leave the plug in when bedding the drain plate?

Also, I'm thinking of putting some plumber's compound or teflon tape on the threads of the plug, just to make sure that it is not leaking through the plug, as well. Does that make sense?
 

JASinIL2006

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You really shouldn't need tape or compound on the plug. Teflon tape won't hurt, but you shouldn't need it to keep if from leaking. (I might use it, if my boat was going to be in the water for a long time -- like an entire season -- just to make the plug come out easier. But it should not leak without tape.)
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I would clean the bilge since you have oil residue in there. I use hot water and dawn dish detergent.

regarding the garboard plug, I think these guys covered it, however I would use 5200 below the water line vs 4200

not sure how close your 180 is to my old 190. however I would get a lot of water coming in from the kids getting in and out of the boat and dripping water everywhere. it usually ran into the ski locker, then drained back to the bilge.

however with you needing to run the bilge pump every 2 hours, that is definately a leak. after cleaning the bilge, I would get down there with a flashlight and mirror and see if you can find the leak. you mentioned filling the boat with water - dont do that. you have to put hundreds of gallons in the boat to get the level high enough, and in the process you will submerge the starter, etc. not to mention get water in areas water isnt supposed to go.
 

rochester

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Jun 3, 2004
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I was thinking of putting just enough water in the bilge to see if the plug/plug housing was leaking, not the outdrive, etc. Maybe a gallon or two... Thanks for the feedback on the 3M 5200!
 

Woodonglass

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regarding the garboard plug, I think these guys covered it, however I would use 5200 below the water line vs 4200


Why??? Only difference between the two is 5200 Tensile strength is 700psi In this application don't see the need. 300 psi should be MORE than enough.

3M 4200
[h=3]Product Description[/h] Cures fast and forms a watertight seal between joints and hardware
One-part, all-purpose sealant chemically reacts with moisture and forms flexible, watertight, weather-resistant seals on joints and hardware. Can be used above or below the waterline; approximately half the strength of 3M's 5200, which allows for eventual dissasembly of parts. Note: Can be softened by some teak cleaners and sealers and is not recommended for sealing teak decks.
  • Formulation: One-part fast-cure polyurethane adhesive/sealant
  • Recommended Usage: Fiberglass, wood, metal, some plastics, above or below water
  • Material Incompatibilities: Acrylics ABS, Lexan
  • Cure Time: Tack free: 2 hrs; complete cure: 24 hrs
  • Cleanup: Mineral spirits or kerosene
  • Removal: Mechanical removal
  • Tensile Strength: 300psi
 
Last edited:

batman99

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Sep 13, 2012
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Last edited:

rochester

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
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34
Thanks for all the feedback. Repaired it last night with 3M 5200. I had not noticed it before, but the plate was a little loose, and the screws were stripped. Two of them were actually bent! There did not seem to be any wood in the transom, at least where the plug hole is. To me, it looked like pure fiberglass. The old sealant was only sparingly apparent, and did not even look like it has been applied all of the way around the hole/plate. After removing the old sealant (what was left of it), cleaning things up with acetone, and roughing up the area that would be under the plate with some 220 sandpaper, I plugged the old holes, rotated the plate, drilled new holes, put 5200 around the plate and screwed the plate on. Also applied a bead of the 5200 around the plate.

My question... is it OK to put the boat in the water on Saturday? It will be about 60 hours since the 5200 was applied. I know it won't be cured for 5-7 days, but it won't effect the integrity of the 5200, will it?
 

JASinIL2006

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Yes, you can use the boat.

When I was restoring my boat, I had to replace the drain because I dripped polyester resin in it and clogged the threads. I was amazed when I removed the old drain fitting because I saw no evidence of any kind of caulking or bedding. They just screwed the thing to the boat dry!

Sounds like you made a good fix.
 

rochester

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 3, 2004
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Just an FYI... and another "Thanks!" Took the boat out yesterday and voila... no leaks! That was the only leak, and now it doesn't!
 
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