1972 Westwind Trihull Transom Stringers Sole

[viktormizer]

Picked up pretty cheap with trailer and paper work this 1972 Westwind trihull powered by a 1967 60 hp Johnson Super Sea Horse VXL -13a with good compression. Got out for a season without a problem but once I started getting in there I realize that it was a pretty bad idea to be anywhere near the water without fixing her proper. The stringers were gone there was just some floating stringers not contacting the hull and not glassed in, just screwed into the remaining part of the old deck to sit the replacement ply on. Transom is mush with a metal bar across. Long story short I have the cap pulled and hull semi gutted. I also made a template cut two 4x8 3/4" BC sanded exterior Plywood from lowes (Plytanium) to size and laminated with titebond 3 wood glue. That's where i'm at as of today.I figure if I make it official by putting up a thread I will be a little less inclined to BS and actually get this thing back on the water, not to mention the help that i see is available by lurking this forum since 2011. Im not looking to turn heads, just a basic rebuild that I know is safe and can get me out fishing again ( but def a paint job). Going all poly using woodonglass's layup schedule as a guide. Ill try to post Some good pics so anyone interested and willing to drop a little knowledge can follow along . Thanks in advance.

 

[gm280]

First things first viktormizer, :welcome: to iboats. Nice for you to join us...

Okay, seems you got one of those tri-hulls that has seen its better days. And as bad as it presently looks, you are on your way to rebuilding it back to better then new condition. Of course all the wood is rotted and long gone pass its usefulness. But you wisely removes the cap and started gutting the hull. You even bought the plywood and started making the transom replacement already. But I would say to stop there and finish gutting everything first. Then you have to grind out all the old fiberglass down to fresh glass/resin before putting anything back in. So finish removing everything and all the rotten everything as well. Then it is the grinding stage. And that is the nastiest, dirtiest, stinkiest, itchiest job you will ever do. You seriously have to use a tyvek coverall suit with a 3M (or equivalent) respirator, proper filter cartridges and eye protection as well to try and save your skin AND lungs! Then start grinding all the old crap out in prep for the rebuild. Then others will chime in and offer the correct way to start installing things back in... But you are certainly on your way and we love pictures too... :thumb:

 

[sphelps]

Ya got a good jump on it Vik ! Yeh I would say it's time for some new bones ! :lol:
Good luck and let us know how we can help !

 

[viktormizer]

Hello all thanks for the welcoming responses and encouragement. I have been at it with the grinder and cutoff wheel taking out some bulk, but before i hit it with the flap wheel i have two questions. It appears the plywood stops about 8 inches or so from the gunwale and then it is glassed the rest of the way. Can i cut in with the wheel along the gunwale joint and then flap down the now much smaller lip or do i have to flap this whole thing down to the hull. I have seen drewpsters thread which is a very similar hull but it kind of skips this small detail. I just want to avoid cutting through the hull.
.

Also,
Where the two outside stringers angle in towards the bow area should i kerf a straight stringer to make the angle or join two sections at an angle where the curve starts. I feel the second option might be more likely to fail and cause the structural layup to possibly stress and eventually fail also. I understand the wood is just a form for the glass but would like to do it right. Thank you all.

 

[Woodonglass]

Typically the outside stringers stop where the bow begins to curve in. They don't follow the curve all the way to the bow.

 

[viktormizer]

Typically the outside stringers stop where the bow begins to curve in. They don't follow the curve all the way to the bow.

I seem to remember pulling out from under the bow area remnants of old stringers : and there is a trail/channel of old glass running up the bow on either side of the center stringer shown here
Are you suggesting i can stop short of the curve using only the center stringer and glass tabbing to hull as support of deck up front? Thank You for the help.