Seam separation at stern :: 1997 Cajun Bass Boat - Fiberglass

zul

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Aug 24, 2015
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Yes, I bought ?that boat?. The boat takes on water into the stern where the battery/bilge is located where the two fiberglass seams meet at the stern. Hose connections look solid as does the transom and motor mounts. There is movement and separation between the 2 seams, can almost slide a finger in between, say ? inch wide gap. It looks like the rivets were improperly installed by the manufacture. Previous owner has silicone caulked the separation with an improper repair.

There are times when the boat doesn?t take on water (while idling or sitting in the water). Also, while water skiing (connecting the rope to the eyelights) it seems that we don?t take on too much water then.
Water comes in at it?s worst when there are 4 people in the boat and no skier. Water pours in at the start (WOT while proposing) and again at speed when water sprays up and into the seam separation (@ stern, and up the port and staroard sides a bit). Results in 3-4 gallons of water in the rear and takes the bilge 4-5 minutes to ?catch up?. The boat is a 1997 Cajun bass boat - 16 foot with a 75hp Mercury outboard.

Looking for some help and advice on the repair: major repair or simply fill/seal the seam separation? I have dreams of a manufacture warranty, but yeah, good luck on that (5 year warranty, I guess).
Is it possible that this damage is catastrophic or unrepairable?!!?
Suggested products and/or best repair method?

If we can fix the seam, we would add a three pole ski pylon to reduce stress on the repaired areas. The rear poles of the pylon would add downward pressure to the top/rear fiberglass instead of placing rearward pull on transom / stern.
Hope that the pics load up and are helpful? Thanks for your input !!


https://www.flickr.com/photos/danafamily/



zul
 
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MTboatguy

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Can't see the picture, it says I need permission, as far as the factory helping, that is barking up the wrong tree on a boat that is 18 years old.
 

MTboatguy

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That is a cap separation, really not that uncommon in older boats, I have seen it happen to many different manufactures, especially on bass boats with high HP and low sides. Not all that difficult to repair. Can you post some pictures a little farther a way, so I can see the exact style of the boat and where this separation is?
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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If that truly IS on the stern (Transom) where the motor hooks on to the boat, then you could have more serious issues than "Cap Separation"!!!:eek: As stated, pix from a bit further away to provide a better perspective of what we're seeing would be helpful!
 

zul

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Aug 24, 2015
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New photos .... added 10 more photos. Let me know if I can take different angles, closer or further away. Feeling desperate for some good news and advice!!!


https://www.flickr.com/photos/danafamily/



The transom seems to be solid but I am the obvious novice here. You will notice some 'paint cracking' just off the motor mount in one photo. How can I determine if the transom is solid and if the 'paint cracks' are paint cracks or more serious???!!! Looking at those paint cracks in real life (as opposed to the photos) looks and seems like no big deal ... but then again .... gulp, Help?!!
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Yeh ya might have some issues with the transom . You can take a small drill bit and drill into the transom from the inside .. Only go about an inch deep .. You don't want to drill all the way through .. Inspect the shavings for dark wet wood . If they come out dry and light colored you may be ok . Check it in several places ..
Btw , You sure have some really cool pics ! Would love to visit the desert one day ... All we have down here are sea oats and sand dunes ! :D
 

DeepBlue2010

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With fiberglass boats,, nothing is un-repairable but as stated before, it could be a sign of bigger issue with the transom. Start by core sampling the transom in different spots specially the bottom and see how is the wood looks like inside. Then we can take it from there.
 

Woodonglass

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Well, it appears the seam separation is mostly on the side of the hull and NOT on the transom (Stern). Do This...Raise the motor up as high as it will go then block the back of the boat solid to the ground with some jack stands. Bounce on the lower leg of the motor and have someone check and see of the top of the transom flexes even just a little bit. If it does then that's a problem. If it doesn't then you should be good to go on the transom, at least for now. It still wouldn't hurt to do some core samples on the inside down low. As far as the seam separation, I'd pull the rubber insert and drill out the rivets of the rail and use some nylon strapping to see if I could pull the hull and cap back into alignment and then if you have access on the inside, apply some glass tabbing to hold it in place. then use some SS screws to put the railing back on, put the insert back in and go boating.;)

But this is just and Old Dumb Okie's opinion so others may come along and have better ideas!!!!:eek:
 

zul

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Aug 24, 2015
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Thanks for the responses everyone. I really appreciate the help. Love the suggestions and bit nervous about drilling into the transom, what size drill bit? Small? Super small? 1/32? The next time I can get to the boat will be Sunday. I will post up more info and pics Sunday night Would anybody be able to clarify what exactly are glass tabs -- any specific product suggestions? What other products/tools should I have on hand before I begin? Thanks again, all these post are super helpful.
 

zul

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After testing the transom, I will be connecting the cap to the hull which will be "fiberglass to fiberglass" seams. Should I start with a fillet epoxy? If so, which one? Is there an epoxy meant to 'fillet' glass to glass? I'm catching lots of videos and trying to round up the correct products before I tare into this project.
 

zul

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This morning, I used all of the swear words that I know at one time. And it's never too early to start drinkin.


First test failed: As Woodonglass suggested, I secured the boat and pushed down on the motor leg. The stern will flex and move. @^$%#^.


Second test: Drilled into the transom down low. Got some strange results: All white powder. As the drill bit passed through the glass, it punched in and felt 'hollow'. Only fine white powder 'poofed out'. I've added one picture to the flickr link. No wood shavings at all. Huh? Also, in the same pic you can see the PO had done some transom sampling and filled with some type of yellow silicone.


The boat is in my garage and I've got the next several days off to take photos and start decision making. Help?!?


https://www.flickr.com/photos/danafamily/
 

Woodonglass

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Yup, drill some more holes up around the motor mounts and see what you get. With all that flex, I'm afraid you're gunna need to replace the transom at the very least and when you open her up I'm also afraid you're gunna find more structural issues below the deck.:grumpy:
 
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zul

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I am beginning to think that the previous owner drove up the ramp with the motor down causing the separation and flex. But what is the deal with 'no wood' in the transom area?? Hollow?!! There should at least be some good wood shavings or rotten wood shavings coming out?!? When the drill bit goes through it actually blows out fine white fiberglass dust. Why is this? Seems odd to me?? I am going to drill some more holes closer to the motor mounts to find some wood shavings.

Next question: Can or should a novice (that's me) dive into a transom replacement? I am a handy DIY guy but have never used fiberglass. Mostly, thinking that I have no choice. Suggestions?

Thanks again peeps.
 

Scott Danforth

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Next question: Can or should a novice (that's me) dive into a transom replacement? I am a handy DIY guy but have never used fiberglass. Mostly, thinking that I have no choice. Suggestions?

Start by going thru the stickies at the top of the forum. sticky #3 http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

then in there, read the entire thread for #4a, #4b, #2 and #14. that will give a newbie all the information to work on a boat, replace a transom,etc.
 

zul

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Aug 24, 2015
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I've drilled a few more holes (around 2" deep) with same results. Drill in, punches through to hollow. Got some metal shavings and more fiberglass dust.

Should I be using a larger diameter drill bit? Should I drill in deeper than 2"? Not wanting to drill through to the outside surface.

Since the stern/transom moves, do I really need to keep drilling? Is it confirmed that the transom needs to be replaced since it moves (about 1/8 inch flex @ 100lbs)?? Is there any hope of just glass tabbing it and be done?

And finally, can I run the boat a few more times before the restore? Or would that be foolish and dangerous??
 

Woodonglass

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1/8" flex is NOT that bad but...It shouldn't have any. I'm puzzled by the white powder. I suppose it could be a foam cored transom and I am NOT familiar with that kind of a build nor it's structural integrity or stability features. Do you know if the boat has been rebuilt in the past? IMHO I think as long as you don't do any Foolish maneuvers and pull any overweight tubers you could take her out one last time without issues.
 

DeepBlue2010

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Your transom is made with honeycomb core. This is what is the white powder is. Your transom is not made out of wood and it will not rot. I have been looking for this boat for a while now. Lucky you!

If you want to prove it to yourself - just to have a peace of mind - drill with a hole saw either a big hole and remove the inner skin and look inside or a small one and look with inspection camera. The caveat is you will need to reglass this opening back

Also by the look of the transom in your pictures, the finish is original and so the transom was never rebuilt. Don't scare yourself about the 1/8 flex, it is not much and I am wondering how were you able to measure it to begin with. Inspect the transom carefully for any cracks or damage. The PO might have indeed ran it down the ramp with the engine down
 
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