Restoring childhood boat. A 1972 Ranger. Help needed (pictures).

[humpbackshooter]

^^^^ :lol::lol::lol::lol: Been there....done that.......:very_drunk:

 

[artfan1]

Yep, you all got it right. The concrete basement wall didn't knock any sense into me?might have knocked some out of me. It was pretty scary when it happened. Pipe wrench came loose, then all my weight slammed my head against the wall. The loudest ringing tone possible inside my head. I didn't know what happened at first. But I survived.

So back to the boat it is. I now have the "putty" material removed and also the top edge of the transom is cut loose from the cap. The putty was tight in areas and loose in others. I used a drill bit to drill a few small holes up into the putty, then a combination of multitool, sawzall and chisel to knock it out. Both corners of the cap are free and I can move them up and down slightly.

The top edge of the transom took a long time. That flat 2" by 35" area was hard as a rock. I burned up 2 sawzall blades cutting through that. But it's loose now too.

Now I just have to free up the part where the transom is laminated to the inside of the splash guard (not sure if that's the correct terminology for that area). Not only is it tabbed on the underside to the cap but it feels like the entire area of the cap/splash guard is laminated solid to the transom. I can't get any movement there. But once I cut the tabbing on the inside of the fuel compartment, I should be able to run a blade up between the two parts. I imagine it will take a while to do this since reaching that area will require me to be a contortionist.

Now this brings me to another question. The drain tube that runs through the transom is flared on both sides.

This is one of 3 drain tubes on the boat. I have another below this one that drains the fuel compartment and the hull (under the floor), and a third in the live well. Do I just cut these out and not worry about salvaging them? I see you can buy these cheap anyway and once I get to that part of the restore, maybe someone here can tell me how to flare one in again.
http://www.iboats.com/Drain-Tube/dm/cart_id.091298671--session_id.006040683--view_id.39188

Ok, back to work (my real job), then more cutting this evening. Thanks again for the encouragement, tips and interested supporters.

 

[kcassells]

Well,
You're probably going to replace the transom anyway. I wouldn't imagine that doing all this work and age of the transom that you wouldn't replace it. That being said, Take pics and when the new is in use the same general locations and/or design a new system that may be simpler and better. The flare part is no biggy as well as already molded brass and plastic fittings that do the same thing.
Glad you are feelin betta!

 

[artfan1]

Oh yea, the transom is rotten alright. :Cry: Dang! I was so (in denial)hopeful it would be good.

I noticed that the old drain tube was badly corroded on the inside so I scraped it with a screwdriver and it fell apart. So I just pulled it out and dug my finger in there. Sawdust. Wet sawdust.
Well the stringers will be ok, right? :biggrin-new:

Guess this thing will be getting the whole makeover for sure. Deep down, I knew it. At least it will be better than new when she's done.
So it must be just the tabbing underneath that's holding the back of the cap on. I'm working on that so I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[gm280]

Oh yea, the transom is rotten alright. :Cry: Dang! I was so (in denial)…hopeful it would be good.

I noticed that the old drain tube was badly corroded on the inside so I scraped it with a screwdriver and it fell apart. So I just pulled it out and dug my finger in there. Sawdust. Wet sawdust.
Well the stringers will be ok, right? :biggrin-new:

Guess this thing will be getting the whole makeover for sure. Deep down, I knew it. At least it will be better than new when she's done.
So it must be just the tabbing underneath that's holding the back of the cap on. I'm working on that so I'll let you know how it goes.

Art, Sorry that it was not good, but I honestly thought is was toast. And I know it isn't any consolation, but most everybody has that same transom rot. Stringers are probably toast also. It goes with the territory. Not what you wanted to hear I'm sure, but if you are going to refurbish this boat, might as well do it right... I had transom rot so bad that it was actually mush that was like putty but stinky and brown gooey mush. I could use my finger and dig it out like putty. So I do know what you are going through. Hang in there. It does get worst and then a lot better... :thumb:

 

[kcassells]

Oh well... simply expect to make full rebuild. It's the nature of the beast. Like I said before you will have a better boat than the day it rolled off the factory line. You will know and own every inch of that boat like it's a part of you. My wood was so bad it still had live worms in it and the wood was mush.
You're doing just fine btw. Now it's just a matter of time, learning and oh yea $$.
Tons of info and support from Iboats!

 

[gm280]

Art, two things that pop out to me. First, you've created a very huge following already with your rebuild project. Seem so many are wanting to follow your efforts and that is a very good thing. The more the better because so many offer not only suggestions but support as well. And believe me, support from the guys on here will help you through the difficult issues. Secondly, just plan on gutting everything out of the hull and figure on grinding the old fiberglass out like so many others have done and then you'll be ready for the rebuild to start. The grinding is the worst and while it really isn't hard to do, it seem like it takes forever to get it all out... But hang in there and keep posting. You will see the following will help you more then you think... :thumb:

 

[artfan1]

Oh well... simply expect to make full rebuild. It's the nature of the beast. ...

? Secondly, just plan on gutting everything out of the hull and figure on grinding the old fiberglass out like so many others have done and then you'll be ready for the rebuild to start?.

Yea, I know it was pretty certain the whole thing was going to be replaced. I'm sure it was very obvious to everyone here. I'm feeling better as time goes by though. I see now that iboats has a lot of experienced people wiling to help out and that does take some pressure off. So it's full steam ahead.

I don't have the cap all the way cut loose yet but I do have the feeling of accomplishment. The cap is loose enough that I was able to lift it from bow to stern. As you can see, it's very inconsistent along the two sides. The port side was solidly laminated the whole way but the starboard side was very random and some of those areas that were tabbed, measure at least 1/4" thick. I think each side was originally glassed by different individuals.

Bow

Starboard side

Port side

Anyway, the stern's release is coming along. I've been determined to free it without cutting into the cap but after 2 partial days (lots of rain again this weekend), I might give up on surgically removing it and just cut into the cap. I spent several hours crammed into the fuel compartment. It wasn't too bad the first hour or two but after a while, with the sun beating down on you and the muscles cramping, it became a matter of mental focus just to keep cutting.

The only area still holding is the splash guard. I've cut up along it far enough to cut into the transom's wood, so the fiberglass is not holding. It's the plywood being held to the inside of the splash guard. Even though the wood is very rotted, there must be some ares along the top that are still hard enough to hang on.

I will work on it another hour today to try and cut it loose from the bottom up, but if I don't make any progress, I will cut into the top edge of the splash guard so that I can insert a sawzall blade down in there. I've seen posts where others have cut that line anyways so I know it can be put back to original condition.

If anyone has any other thoughts or suggestions, please let me know. Thanks.

 

[gm280]

artfan1, sir, my hats off to you. You have gone beyond what most would have done by now, on your boat project. Once you get that cap off, thing start to look up indeed. Don't worry about the sides and all the irregular fiberglass sticking out, other then be careful because that stuff is really sharp and will cut you easily. Once you grinding all that ragged fiberglass junk off, the project starts to take on a better look. And once all the hull grinding is finished, you are home free after that. I will say you do have some very labor intense grinding ahead of you. But it isn't hard to do, only tedious...and dirty, itchy and smelly as well. Everything and every part of any exposed skin will be covered in white dust. But proper PPE and you will come through it okay. I am watching this build because I think you have it going great now... :thumb:

 

[DeepBlue2010]

If you have to, so be it but it will not be my first choice.

I think you are just getting anxious and/or tired. I find it very helpful to prep my work area according to the weather of the day to keep me comfortable. Also, get a cooler close by and fill it with some cold water bottles to stay hydrated. When I am I the middle of a work session, I found myself skipping on water because I don't want to stop and walk few steps inside the house. Few little things like this would help, I hope.

 

[Woodonglass]

Use your best judgement! You are on site and can see what needs to be done. We are Not!!! Just remember this...It's fiberglass and anything can be repaired and made to look new again.

 

[kcassells]

Like they said yup uh huh yup.

 

[sphelps]

Yep that looks mighty uncomfortable ... Maybe cut some wedges to drive in between little by little to keep it spread apart ....

 

[Kiloecho]

Nice job! Especially with the " twenty-seven 8 x 10 colored glossy photographs with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of e[FONT=Times New Roman, serif]ach one explainin' what each one was ........" Arlo Guthrie, 1969. That technique makes the photo and your intentions so much clearer. The only way I have been able to come close to that is to use iWeb and then do a screen shot. [/FONT]

 

[artfan1]

Nice job! Especially with the " twenty-seven 8 x 10 colored glossy photographs with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of e[FONT=Times New Roman, serif]ach one explainin' what each one was ........" Arlo Guthrie, 1969. That technique makes the photo and your intentions so much clearer. The only way I have been able to come close to that is to use iWeb and then do a screen shot. [/FONT]

Ah, "Alice's Restaurant Massacree". Nice.
Yea, I always believe that a photograph is worth 1000 words, but adding labels, arrows, etc. makes it worth a whole lot more. I use photoshop and illustrator mostly for that stuff. It takes some time but it makes things so much clearer.

Still working away on the transom and cap separation. I do have to make some cuts in the top of the cap in order to release the top few inches because there just isn't enough room to get the sawzall blade up that high from the inside. The sawzall itself is just too big for that angle because the floor is only 9" below it. I've tried and tried for days but it's not possible with the tools I have. I'll post picture once it's off.

 

[Kiloecho]

Ah, "Alice's Restaurant Massacree". Nice.
Yea, I always believe that a photograph is worth 1000 words, but adding labels, arrows, etc. makes it worth a whole lot more. I use photoshop and illustrator mostly for that stuff. It takes some time but it makes things so much clearer.

Still working away on the transom and cap separation. I do have to make some cuts in the top of the cap in order to release the top few inches because there just isn't enough room to get the sawzall blade up that high from the inside. The sawzall itself is just too big for that angle because the floor is only 9" below it. I've tried and tried for days but it's not possible with the tools I have. I'll post picture once it's off.

Will one of these get up in there? I plan to buy one to supplement my toolbox when I start my Arabian project.

 

[kcassells]

I love that tool but finally bought the ridgid unit in electric chord. Has alot more ba double L's. Tired of waiting for batteries to get charged or when they run out. has definetly proved itself but may not get into all the areas. At least though enough to proceed further with another tool.

 

[artfan1]

Will one of these get up in there? I plan to buy one to supplement my toolbox when I start my Arabian project.

Yes, the tool fits in there better but the blades are not long enough to reach the several inches it needs to go. And they are not course enough to cut that much. So in this spot, it's not helpful but it's very useful everywhere else. You will want to get one.

I love that tool but finally bought the ridgid unit in electric chord. Has alot more ba double L's. Tired of waiting for batteries to get charged or when they run out. has definetly proved itself but may not get into all the areas. At least though enough to proceed further with another tool.

Agreed. The multitool is wonderful for a lot of things. I bought a battery powered one a couple years ago and it kept dying on me before I could get the task done. Not like my cordless drills and impact guns that last all day on a single charge. So the next one I bought was with a cord. It really helps to have that added power for this tool.

 

[gm280]

I have to admit a multi-tool IS a great addition to anybody's arsenal of tools. Amazing how many areas you can use one of things in. I've used one on my boat project and was glad to have that option. I give it a :thumb: up...

 

[sphelps]

Nice job! Especially with the " twenty-seven 8 x 10 colored glossy photographs ]

Just hope ya don't get a blind judge ! :lol:
Haven't heard that one in a long time ...