70's era 15' Yarcraft yankee project question

ondarvr

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If you add wax it means that you need to sand 100% of the surface, and remove all the wax that may have been moved around and deposited in new places while sanding. Plus it means you are required to sand the surface, no way around it, then clean up after spending possibly a couple of hours sanding, spending money on griding discs, grinders, etc. All of this is avoided by not using waxed resin.

If any painting is going to be done in the shop there can be problems with having most of the shop and tools contaminated with wax.

Also in a shop where employees are building boats (or whatever) you now have extra steps the need to be remembered, and someone will always forget and use waxed resin where it shouldn't be used, which can cause huge warranty claims.

Wax also separates from the resin or gel coat over time, and at times can be difficult to mix back into solution, so now you have what you think is waxed resin, but really there is only a layer of wax floating on the surface, little or nothing is mixed into the drum or pail. If you pour it out of a pail or similar container the first stuff that comes out is mostly wax, so after that there's little left in the container. If you take it from a drum, it's normally from a spiggot at the lowest point when the drum is laid down, so now if the wax is floating on the surface you won't get any until the drum is almost empty. Temperature fluctuations exacerbate the problem.
 

ondarvr

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On another one of the OP's questions.

It's not really going to make much of a difference in the finished product which resin you use, while many aspects of epoxy are "better", the better properties can end up being overkill and not really needed.
 

oba97

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Need help...I have a Pic.

So I finally got my in-laws boat home. It poured rain the whole way home 2hrs so the inside got wet (already had a hole in the floor). Anywho, here?s my question.... It seems as though the floor was directly on top of the hull on the port and starboard site of the boat. Is this normal? When I eventually get to that point (might be a couple of years) do I spread some PB between the wood and the hull? hopefully you can see what I am talking about in the attached pictures.
 

oba97

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Heres a pic of the whole boat. 1975 15' Yar-Craft Yankee with a Mercury 500 Thunderbolt.
 

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gm280

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I have to say I'm not sure what you're asking about with the floor is on the top on the port side. I looked at the pictures and certainly can see a ton of rotted wood that has to be removed. And The only way I can see that happening is to remove the boat cap. So you're in for a lot of dirty, stinky, messy work. But the prize at the end is so well worth it. If you are willing to put in the needed time, money and effort, that boat can look like new, but built better then new as well. I suggest you read some of these other numerous boat rebuilt projects on here and get an idea what is involved. But if you continue, we are certainly here to assist and direct you to what it takes to do this rebuild... :thumb:
 

oba97

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Ya, I've been reading a ton and know I in for a lot of work. In my reading I haven't came across this before.... Foam up under the cap. It's all around the perimeter of the boat. Is the going to cause a lot of headaches? I have rivets holding the cap to the hull. Having never removed them before do I just drill them out? How do I reinstall when done?
 

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oba97

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Will do. Thanks for looking out for me :facepalm:.
 

oba97

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How do I find out who the moderators are? Im sure Im going to feel like an idiot once Im told, but I couldnt figure it out.
 

DeepBlue2010

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jbcurt00 is one of the forum moderators, you can send him a private message. You can also start a new questions with title directed to the moderators,, something like "Need moderator help" or similar and ask them to combine your previous threads.

FYI, your pictures are not clear. Could be the lightning or the camera or both
 

oba97

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Thanks. I'll contact JB. Im taking the pictures with my phone so that might be part...probably mostly operator error. I'll try and get better pictures tonight.
 

jbcurt00

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I'll combine them for you, send me a PM if you need anything else
 

oba97

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hopefully the sketch below will help with my question. I have one main (i believe the term is dagger) stringer down the middle that feels solid but looks shot. then there are two stringers on either side that are a lot small in height. There are bulkheads that run perpendicular to the stringers that seem to be more floor support. The deck actually lays on the hull for about a foot on each side (area marked by the green box's). So it seems that the hull is actually support for the floor as much as the stringers are. It seems that the stringers only support the floor in the middle. Is this common? I know it's not going to be for a while but will I bond the floor to the hull in the green box area or just tab it in?
 

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Woodonglass

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As the deck/floor approaches the sides of the hull it is quite common for it to come in contact with the hull bottom. This is NOT an issue. Nothing for you to be concerned with. You will do your normal tabbing attachment to the sides of the hull and to the stringers and that's all that will be required. Study this and you'll be good to go...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
 

oba97

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so I got home from work and did a quick drill of my transom to find dark wood...no suprise. I started removing the rub rail at the front just to see how everything is attached. The first pic is with the rubber removed. You can see the small rivets that I have yet to drill out. There are some holes all the way around (maybe for bigger rivets?). Once I drilled the rivets and removed the front section I found that there were bigger rivets (pic 2) holding the cap and hull together. Anything I need to be aware of or concerned about prior to drilling thoes rivets out?
 

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oba97

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Im hoping to do this soon so if anyone has any thought please let me know.
 

Woodonglass

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Yup ^^^ no Rocket Science here!!! Just remove everything holding it together and lift it off. You may even find that it's glued together at the back by the transom and you may have to do some cutting and grinding. But heck it fiberglass and ANYTHING can be repaired!!!!:eek: NO WORRIES!!!! GIT ER DUN!!!!!
 
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