I just got my new waterpump and exhaust plate and have a couple of questions. With the exhaust plate, it came with the stainless steel (baffle?) and the alloy plate/cover. There is a little bit of old gasket material on it, and I intend to cut my own gasket. Any ideas as to what type of gasket material I should use?
Also, the mechanic I took the boat to half did the job- removed lower leg for me- but reading some posts, some people have trouble finding gear, or having thier engine stuck in gear. Is there anything I should look for, any gear position indicator, or any way of telling if it is in neutral before I start? I know it sounds funny, but I would rather have done the whole job, it would have been easier to put it back together knowing how it came apart. I read on the sticky to look for the bolt under the exhaust snout, but mine is still connected to the leg. Any clues as always much appreciated.
The stainless plate is sandwiched between two identical gaskets, the aluminum cover, and the block.
Quite frankly (no pun intended) those particular gaskets are so large and complex, that to me it is worth the 9 bucks apiece to buy them.
However, if you have the time and inclination or if you just can not buy them, Grey 1/32 thick gasket paper sold at auto stores here in the U.S. is the stuff to use. In this application, it would probably be best to coat the paper with gasket varnish before installing them.
Thanks Frank...:-) $9.00 a piece is cheap, but, shipping ex US is $36.00, plus the $18.00....... I'm making some gaskets. Didn't know they sandwiched the s/s plate. Guess I'll find out when mine is off:-) Of course, if ANYONE knows of a place in Australia that I can buy the gaskets, thats a different story! By the way, does the Exhaust Plate have a water vane running around it?
If anyone on this forum can buy and ship them to me, I can paypal you....they look intricate as F***....... Ordinary Mail EX US? plus $18.00......sounds like $30.00 should get me out of trouble. Offers accepted........:-)
The aluminum plate has a cavity in the center, covered by the stainless plate, that is always filled with water when the engine is running. Look at it (the aluminum plate) and you will see that the perimeter also has a cavity with a couple of drilled holes to direct water flow. Be careful when making the gaskets because the stainless plates usually have a small weep hole near the bottom and this must be kept open to flow. In addition to screw holse, the stock gaskets have openings between the casting walls BUT have solid portions for gasket wall strength. If you have a couple of inches of old gasket as a template, that would help.
Your 1988 Force should not have problems sticking in gear or going into gear when you reattach the lower unit. It buses a push-pull rod. The ones that typically have problems are the later Merc lower units because they use a different shift system.
SOMETIMES---if you are really good and really lucky, you can remove the original gaskets with a knife or razor and reuse them. Try that first, but don't expect to be that lucky.
Just sourced 2 gaskets in Sydney. $35.00 each sort of sucks, but I dont want to be cutting gaskets for 6 weeks :-). I know they are $10.00USD, but shipping is a killer. $40.00USD for shipping. So it was same same really, its just I get mine in 2 days!
I will post some pics as we go....Also, with the corrosion on my old plate, would this contribute to the overheating?