Do most of the -bigger- Chrysler carbs interchange? Recently got a fair deal on an '84 chrysler 90 hp that I intended to use for spare parts to my 135. The PO bought a boat/motor/trailer just to get the trailer since the boat was scrap. Anyway, suposedly one of the carbs had a problem and was misplaced before I bought the engine. I've decided to try to find a pair of carbs/linkage and fuel pump housing to try to get the motor to run. Thought that if other engine sizes use the same carb, then that -might- make my search easier.
Assuming your 84 is a 4 cylinder 90, the carbs may or may not swap. Chrysler used two different carb styles: WB and TC. Physically, WB carbs are much smaller than TC. you can not mistake them for each other-- it is obvious. The old 105 used WB carbs as did a couple of years of 120. I am really not sure what carbs the 4 cylinder 90 used.
SO: If the carbs look the same they will fit on the 135 manifolds If they do not look the same, then to make them fit you must also swap manifolds.
Fuel pumps and carb linkages are all the same and will swap.
Thanks Frank. Yes it is a 4cyl, so I will compare them between the two engines and see if they are the same. Will then try to find the correct pair for the 90. IF I end up relegating this back to a parts engine, would it be possible (or worth the time) to swap the 135's distributer out with the 90's coil pack system?
Yes, it is possible but is it worth it? In terms of a less complex ignition and slightly more precise timing, yes it is worth it. But if the current distributor system is working well, why bother? You do need to swap everything. --Stator, triggers, coils, Cd boxes, wiring, etc.
The only thing you will need is a 1/16 spacer under the stator mount to keep the top ball bearing in position.
I did the swap from distributor to cd, and the only noticeable difference is maybe a smoother idle? It was ALOT of work, and time consuming (at least the first swap was). I guess the only real gain is parts availability, and newer technology. Seems like I can find new cd's and coils much easier than distributor parts? Anyway, if you decide to do it pm me and I can give a run down of the tools and techniques I used.
Thanks guys, that's kind of what I thought (alot of work for minimal gain). Spent enough years as an auto mechanic, so the effort doesn't deter me, but would want to at least know it would make a real world difference. Hopefully I get the 90 up and running before there's any need to rob parts off it.
Tater76, I will send you a message if it ever comes to it. Thanks
Anyone have good experiences with any outboard/boat salvage yards and want to recomend a couple?
ETA, my 135 has TC's and the 90 has a WB (like said, one is missing).
If you change the manifold covers you can put TC carbs on the 90. You do not need to take out the reeds, although the same bolts hold them to the block.
You can also go reverse and put WB carbs on the 135 but then you would be strangling it--You would lose some horsepower but I don't know how much.
The only difference between your 90 and the 105 is that the 105 was rated at the crankshaft. When Chrysler went to propshaft rating (I think in '82), they re-rated and re-badged the engine as a 90. So, if looking for WB carbs, you can use those off a 105 or the small carb 120. You can also use the top and bottom carbs off a '89-'90 150 HP.