I recently purchased a 1989 Bayliner with a 85 hpForce on it. When I took it out in the water after running for a while the motor didn't want to restart. I thought it was the ignition switch and bought a new one and replaced it. That did not solve the problem. The next time I took it out it hesitated on starting after the first time I turned it off. The second time I turned it off, it didn't want to refire at all. It turned over but really didn't want to start. I finally got it started and she smoked at first like it got fouled up from something. (Me trying and trying to start it?) I checked the choke and it was ok. Anyone got any ideas on what could be the problem? It starts fine in the driveway.
How do you know if you are using too much choke?How can you tell if it is a leaky diaphram?Should I smell a strong odor of gas if it is flooded? How do you know if it is starving for gas...if the float needle is stuck?
When you tried to restart the boat, did you push in on the key while you had it in the crank position? If you did, then you choked it while it was warm. I have done this while I was learning what not to do. I choked mine while warm and it took me a while to get it going again. I ended up letting it sit for a while and it restarted. When I did that I was lucky I was at a friends dock so I had it tied up while it sat. Since then I carry 3 spare spark plugs. I recommend you doing the same.
The fuel pump diaphram will leak into the powerhead. Leak not visible from the outside. But it floods out the bottom cylinder.You won't necessarily smell a strong gas odor when it floods, as the exhaust exits under water.All the extra smoke is a good indication that it was flooded.I rarely use the chike with my motor. If mine doesn't start within 10 seconds I know something is wrong. I check the kill switch, make sure the fuel line is attached and bulb is pumped, then I try again, this time using the choke for 3 seconds.
Could it be a carburater problem? Once I drive for about 10 minutes on the water how do I know if I don't need the choke? Will not using the choke cause any problems?Will doing the wrong thing first screw up the motor?
On a warm motor you really don't need to choke it.Try starting it without the choke if warm.Since you just bought it I would replace the fuel pump.This is a very very easy thing to do. Its basically a rubber diaphram. you remove the fuel bowl on the side of the motor (1)screw where the fuel line enters the motor. Ther there are 3 or 4 screw you remove. take off the flat rubber diaphram and replace it. Rescrew everything together and your done. Its very easy. As we always do we suggest you get the book. Manual!Have fun and play nice.
Originally posted by rusty l: I recently purchased a 1989 Bayliner with a 85 hpForce on it. When I took it out in the water after running for a while the motor didn't want to restart. I thought it was the ignition switch and bought a new one and replaced it. That did not solve the problem. The next time I took it out it hesitated on starting after the first time I turned it off. The second time I turned it off, it didn't want to refire at all. It turned over but really didn't want to start. I finally got it started and she smoked at first like it got fouled up from something. (Me trying and trying to start it?) I checked the choke and it was ok. Anyone got any ideas on what could be the problem? It starts fine in the driveway.
Have same problem. This is what I do to start after engine is warm. I pull the throttle handle out into high idle, in Neutral and turn key with Key out (Key in is choked). Engine will normally start. If it doesn't start, with throttle at high idle and selector in neutral, I turn key with Key depressed (choked) and the engine will start. I have this problem when the outside temp is 80 Deg F or above and suspect it is caused by vapor lock in the carbs. Rebuilding the carbs didn't help.
i think i will try that also (us navy mm2) i guess its just that type of motor. i have it getting looked at right now to see if there is any problem other that me trying to start it improperly any chance you do a compression check on yours? just courious to see what other force as mine is at.
oh yea one more thing will that restore stuff help get my rings clean and the compression up some? the repair guy said it works really well and will give me better compression he said most likely the rings are dirty and sticking .
Didn't check compression, but 16' Bayliner runs @ 41 MPH with 2 people. Back to the Starting Problem.... I replaced the Fuel Pump also (it needed replacement badly) but this didn't help the warm start problem. The previous owner had the carbs rebuilt (I have the receipt with the hot no start condition written on the invoice) and the cost was $321.00. I think that's why they sold the boat. Took me a while (and a dead battery) to figure out how to get it started.
Just went through this with my 1996 Force 120. Mine would start with relative ease. Not right away, but within acouple of minutes. It would run fine, but if I shut it off, it would not restart for atleast 30+ mins. It gave me all the signs of a flooded engine, but didn't make since for it to be flooded. So I changed the SPARK PLUGS, just put new ones in, and have not had the problem since. I figured that it would start the first time because the plugs had been dried from not running, but once running, and turned off the plugs would just not fire until cool, resulting in the chambers flooding, resulting in me waiting 30+mins to get her to crank. Maybe you have checked this, and I am completly wrong. But if you haven't, 10 or 15 bucks is easier than 300+. Good luck
First, change the plugs with new ones so you have a base line.
The next time you have it running, take it out for a spin at @25mph for about 20min. Shut engine down with the key without coming back on the throttle. Beware of the backwash from your wake, keep folks forward to keep water from entering the boat.
Pull the plugs and look at them. They should be clean with slight oil residue on them. If they are soaked or black, your mixture is too rich. This will cause starting problems on a warm engine.
You will not notice this at the top end as Force engines like to run rich at WOT. It should run a little rich but too much is no good.
You should be noticeing a rough running engine during extended slow speed operation.
Disregard vapor lock. This engine does not get hot enough for that to occur.
Force engines are NOTORIOUS for fouling plugs. ANY time you experience hard starting or no starting the FIRST thing to do is to clean or change the plugs.
A properly synchronized and timed engine should start hot just by turning the key in neutra. If it does not, Buy a manual and synchronize the carbs and timing. Set the idle speed to 700-750 RPM in forward gear in the water. If the idle speed is too low, hot starts will always be problem.
Great info, just joined forum after reading this thread.
"USNAVYMM@ 6/3/05" souds exactly like my problem. I just got this boat this last season and have exclusively run it in a power plant cooling lake- water temps higher than most. Can't wait to try "John from MD 2/2/09" test drive.
907 you should start your own thread.This is 6 years old and he hasn't been on here for over a year.
Tell us about the problem.Motor,year,hp. etc.Then any details.
Do a compression test.Rebuild the fuel pump,reset the air screws.Change all the hoses and check for water in the fuel.J
IF YOUR OUTBOARD DOESN"T START WITHING A FEW SECONDS THEN SOMETHING"S WRONG!!!!
boats . net is NOT the place to buy parts.They managed to screw up my last 4 orders.
NO communication,NO follow through. Incompetent staff.Nuff said!
Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
If you fix your problem,do the rest of the posters a favor and send in one more post telling who,what, how it was fixed.J