I have a 1987 19' capri with a 125 force, any time you try to start it you need to pull the throttle into the warm up position open it up and choke it until it farts through the carbs, then release the choke, and it will fire right up and run until you back the throttle off and try to put it in gear. put it back in warm up, choke till it farts release choke and do it again. On about the 5th or 6th try if you can get it in gear it'll run great until you pull it out of gear to idle to dock, fishing hole or tighten ski rope. It doesn't matter if the motor is cold or at running temp, any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanx, R.j. Byrnes P.S. If you guys can solve this one then we'll go on to tilt and trim
Thats quit a starting technique!I have the same rig with the same starting problem for the last year. [since I bought it] I get faster starts by spraying premixedgas down the throat of the carbs. The throttle is wide open and I drilled a smallaccess hole through the plastic deflector plates. Because of this site I've concluded that the problem is an ineffective check valve in the gas pump. Your other problems after the start lead me to belive that the diaphrams in the gas pump arn't supplying enough pressure at low RPM.Question; When pumping the bulb do you hear the fuel going and FILLING the carbs.------------------
Thanks for your help, I won't be able to get to the possible cures for a week or two due to a forced shift change at work and an upcoming wedding, but I'll let you know one way or another. your help is greatly appreciated , R.J. Byrnes
Hi Sherrick007,I'm only new to this arena but i might have a solution?When i picked up my 89 Capri 125 Hp Force from the dealer, i had a similar problem.Let me see if iv'e got it right, you need to have the throttle on to start, but when you put in in gear it stalls?Thats what mine was doing.My problem was that the boat was used solely in fresh water and the idle was adjusted to suit.It turns out that sea water is denser and therefore needed the idle turned up so that when you hooked the prop up (in gear) the resistance would cause the motor to stall.Might be worth a try? it could be a cheap fix, either that or i'm way off base!May the boat be with you,Brad
I think I see clearer now. The source of the problem is it won't idle in neutral. Thus the idle mixtures should be reset. About 1 1/4 turns open from their seat. Idle speed screw should be inactive. 800 rpm. If she stalls going into gear don't worry active idle speed control so rpm in neutral goes up enough not to stall.Idle speed screw is on bottom of tower shaft left side of engine.As a result the starts may be normal.------------------
My 125 Force stalls when in idle after running and trying to shift to foward or reverse. It leads to pure hell while docking or trailering. Sony should I pick up my idle a little and see if that helps. How exactly do I adjust idle and turn what 1 1/4turns please help.I got a new diaphram for the fuel pump should I slap that on, I seem to get plenty gas.I think the initial load of pushing water stalls the boats unless I rev it in idle then gun it
I doubt that sony is reading this or will answer, because you have replied to a 2 year old post.ssuajk, your first step is to buy a manual for your motor. It will walk you thru everything that needs to be worked on. Yes, install the fuel pump diaphram, it won't do you any good if you don't install it. Don't know if you should increase your idle, because we don't know what rpm you are idling at now. Although increasing the idle may help, and seems to be the quick fix, you should first try to determine the cause of your problem. Shifting gears at a fast idle is not really all that good for your lower unit.If your engine runs good at full throttle, then your problem is most likely in the carbs. Rebuild them.It won't hurt to do a thorough decarb of the powerhead either.If you need specifics on how to proceed, post a new topic with your question.
After 4 years of battling with my bayliner, I finally found a cure. I rebuilt carbs, no good. I rebuilt fuel pump, no good. I replaced all fuel lines and squeeze ball, no good. I played with idle, no good. I played with timing, no good. I got rid of the boat and bought a 98 starcraft with a 4.3 liter I/O haven't had a problem since! As a side note, I did have some sucsess with standing the squeeze ball straight up and downand mounting it to the transom, this too points to a check ball problem. The ball wouldn't pump up and get hard untill I did this. thanx for all of your advice and happy boating, R.J. Byrnes
SSUAJK The definate solution to your problem is the adjustment of the idle SPEED screw(bolt). It's located left of the bottom carb at the bottom of a vertical shaft. This bolt butts up to the engine block. Turn clockwise and the revs will rise, without changing the carb settings.
ssuajk:I agree with sony2001 But here is what you need to know. All adjustments to the motor have to be made while the motor is in gear and the lower unit is submerged in water. If you use muffs their is no back pressure, the rpms drop as soon as the exhaust is covered with water and you wind up with a low rpm and stalling problem. Remember that every time you raise or lower rpm, the tower shaft is going to chage the timing. It,s all in the manual , take one step at a time. YOU CAN DO IT. Good luck.
For what it's worth, I work on Force outboards 7 days a week out here, and I never set the idle at 800rpm.I am out here on the west coast and I set every Force over 85Hp to a 1000rpm idle the second I mount them. 800rpm (as dictated in most manuals) is too near to a stall on some Force outboards, especially out here in the salt.