1971 55HP Fury Sport...water test soon

[Wilburthegreat]

Greetings all!

I purchased this little honey (we'll see!) last fall, for $300 hull/motor/trailer. 1971/72 55HP. I have been trying to do all of my due diligence work before I drop her in the water and see what she's like, and I have a few questions. First, it wouldn't spit water from the TellTale initially, so I have rebuilt the L/U (several times), and replaced the gear case seal, drive shaft seal (under the impeller housing) and impeller housing seal. There is some wearing on the shaft, around the impeller, but I have no idea how much is too much. It will start and run like a champ, with fairly warm water exiting the TellTale (not sure if it's supposed to be cold or not), while running in a bucket with the thermostat removed (it's borked).
My question, I guess, is this: I have water looks like gear oil floating on top of the water in the bucket. I have read that sometimes it's normal after having had all the components off (several times), and that it's just 'flushing' itself. Is this accurate? I like this little rig, but as parts in Ontario are getting harder to come by for this little beasty, I don't want to turn this into a saga.
I can provide pics and videos if it helps.

Cheers
WilburTheGreat

[wickware]

Look at the oil/gas ring my 1970 35 HP Chrysler (with a 55 hood) leaves in my barrel since 1984 that I feel is normal. I have noticed some small lakes have or will start restricting 2-cycle due to this contamination.

My Tell Tale is medium worm but not too hot to the hand or temp sensor. I re-located the Tell Tale’s water exit tube due to forgetting to thread it back into the hood and had no water (vs being pinched by the hood). I really like the Tell Tale because I see solid water vs spitting due to exhaust mixed.

Please post some pics, I like to compare “Monsters”.

Lets Keep The Old Chryslers Humming! jow

[Wilburthegreat]

Here are the pics Wick

[Wilburthegreat]

...in addition, I guess I will see if I can either dispel or prove the info I've found in this forum regarding installing an impeller upside down. When re-installing, I assembled the L/U in this format:
1)Impeller run up the shaft from the bottom, with the keyway facing up
2)Pin inserted into shaft
3)Shaft then inserted into L/U and impeller housing tightened down, so after all is said and done, the impeller is acting like a bushing keeping the shaft from dropping down too far

I only did it this way, because if I re-assembled with the impeller slid down the shaft from the top, there was noticeable gear-on-gear 'chunking' when hand turning the shaft in the L/U, with the entire leg removed from the Power Head.
The way I did it, it's silky smooth, the gears engage normally, and there was much rejoicing.

[wickware]

Your pics look good and identical to my 1970 35 HP Chrysler or close.

1. I’ll post a pics relater to my LU impeller replacement. I’m not following your concern about the order of re-assembling.
2. I’m not seeing a Tell Tale installed (I'll re-post) and feel you are referring to the pressure relief in the back that spits.
3. The large orange wire by the linkages is different compared to the 35 HP. What is it?
4. Are you working from a good manual as Clymer IMO vs info found on-line? jow

[Wilburthegreat]

Hey Wick,

I guess I'm working off flawed or inaccurate info. I was under the impression that what you call the pressure relief was actually the TellTale, or pee-hole. In your pics, where you have the plastic hose exiting the head, I simply have a large screw plug. Forgive my ignorance, but while I have a great deal of backyard mechanics experience (including 2-strokes and small engines), I have never owned or worked on an outboard before. The large orange wire in my pics is the ground strap (probably NOT factory installed). I guess many of my questions and concerns will be answered today, as the weather is decent and I'm going to drop her in the water and see if she explodes. I may (or may not) have a bountiful supply of spare parts for your 35 in a matter of hours
I'll let you know how it goes.

[wickware]

Wil, “In your pics, where you have the plastic hose exiting the head, I simply have a large screw plug.”

The plug is where you adapt the ¼” Tell Tale or into the hose close by. This gives you a good view of solid water out the side. I’ll suggest just below the hood for less interference removing the hood etc.

“I have a great deal of backyard mechanics experience (including 2-strokes and small engines), I have never owned or worked on an outboard before.”

We basically have the same background and experience, except I started my outboard experimenting own my own in 1984 from my semi trained small engines and auto background.

Good Luck On The Water!

PS. I hope you did not find your primer bulb reversed at 6:30 AM trying to go fishing after adding a new fuel line and filter. I had to find by best pair of glasses. LOL

[Wilburthegreat]

Hey Wick,

This one is for you brother! She didn't sink to the bottom, and after some minor battery issues @ the dock, it ran! Still have work to do (leaking gear oil, and doesn't want to rev out right), but I'm one step closer. Thanks for your help, and I'll keep updating this post with new goodies.

Wilbur

[wickware]

That Is Great Wilber!

1. Related to, “doesn't want to rev out right”. Even though it starts and runs, have you pulled the flywheel and checked the conditions of your points? My stumble or hesitation has always been dirty points vs burned. Basically I could clean them with points’ files or fine emory cloth w/o pulling the points (check the gap for 0.020).

2. Related to, “leaking gear oil”. I have changed the LU’s O-ring and seal if you feel that is your need vs a fill/drain plug seal leaking. I replaced the two w/o pressure testing before or after because it was so distinct at the prop shaft. This info and more s/h been found by searching Wickware but I d/n see it. I’ll attach my LU leak experience.

[Wilburthegreat]

Hey Wick,

Yeah, I've done the whole points thing, long before I even put it in a bucket. This one feels more fuel-delivery related to me. I'm going to tear down the carb and blow it out, to start with. Adding insult to injury, I also don't have a proper fuel tank....just running the line into a 1 gallon (4L) jerry can. Engine issues I can deal with....drive issues, not so much! I drained the lower unit when I got back, and 'lo and behold, my gear oil looks like 4yr old snot! I took the prop off, and I suspect my issue stems from a bad prop seal (I had previously replaced the gear cage O-ring, but not the seal behind the bearing in the cage). I hope to order a new one tomorrow.
I'll keep you posted.
It might not hit the water until Sunday (damn family!)

[wickware]

Do you feel the jerry can is not creating a vacuum? Have you replaced the fuel pump’s diaphragm? That’s my next task if I can find one of quality at a marina. I know my inspected 1984 diaphragm looker stretched but has worked well IMP. I would like to see if a new one will improve any performance. BUT! Spending/experimenting for 5-8 short (on the water) fishing trips is not fun at these gas prices. Two trips, 300 mi on the Hwy, 3 gals on the water, w/o a decent keeper. Do not mention the need for tires (that dry-rot). I need to revisit my local fishing 10-30 mi away and Thumb Home. LOL

[Wilburthegreat]

Hmmmm...something you said could be vital:
'Do you feel the jerry can is not creating a vacuum?'
Is it critical that the gas can is sealed? Because I left the vent screw off the can entirely. I saw a great deal of bubbling in the can when under throttle, and was wondering if this is normal.
Guess I should break down and invest in a proper fuel tank before I take her out again.

Thanks again for the ongoing support

Wilbur

[wickware]

I felt lack of venting c/h been an issue. Since that was not the case, I feel you possibly did discover an issue. The action in the can sounds like some type of back-pressure (maybe from the fuel pump, carb or reed valves). It is above my experience. Hopefully others that have experienced that and know if it is normal will jump into this discussion.

That was a good Pic on the water. I’ll have to go back and listen closer. I feel I heard it Humming Good!

[Wilburthegreat]

I may (or may not) have been a schmuck. I replaced the prop seal last night, because my L/U oil was a pukey yellow color. Regardless of the rest of my saga, it should have been done, so I don't feel too bad. However, when I was in the bay the other day, idling up to the dock, I noticed globules of white stuff coming from the prop/exhaust area, and bursting on the surface like a gas ring. I assumed this was gear oil, given my lack of expertise and my multiple disassembly's and seal replacements. However, having just now run it in my bucket (with new prop seal), I have quite a bit of whitish-foaming substance floating on the water. This substance REEKS of fuel. I do believe the little bugger is running too rich! Haven't drained the latest lot of gear oil, but I'll let you know how that turns out. I have reset the air screw to 1 turn out (previously 1.25 turns out). Damn thing still starts like a champ though...Will post a new video shortly with what I have. Still luvin' the help, brother!

Wilbur

[Wilburthegreat]

[wickware]

Wilber And Other Help Please. Good Informational Video Display! IMO, I feel this is a fuel or chemical residue. The Monster does start great. You might be able to tweak the fuel leaner (too lean could melt or damage a piston etc.. The tan-ish color plugs usually indicate a good mixture (vs white = too lean or black = too rich). I usually try to power tune my carb in the water under a load while a friend drives at WOT or set it run it until I feel I have my best setting. Usually this is close to one turn out and the plugs should say a lot. I always run toward the rich side if some close calls are to be made. Then live with fair performance vs “Letting The Old Monster” Dog Me”!

I see your cover on your leg is missing at the pressure relief port?? I saw your Ignition response in another 55 HP thread and thought I was slipping. LOL.