I would like to know how to adjust the idle up on this motor ! It has 3 carbs and I'm not sure where to look for adjustments !
Thanks Dan

Our outboard was bought in 2009. It is a 2008. MFS 9.8 A3 3V2 Ser:054787XH.
It's probably run less than say 20-30 hours since we bought it and is only used intermittently on our tender. During last 2 years, from time to time it has given us some problems, noticeably it could be difficult to start when warm and seemed to flood, which could be overcome by pulling a few times full'ish throttle. Towards end of last season when running couple of friends a mile or so away at fairly high revs the engine almost 'died' then 'picked-up' then almost 'died' again and this continued to happen until I settled for a very modest speed to complete our journey. The engine problems persisted, sometimes being difficult to start, not able to run continuously at high revs, cutting-out at tick-over revs. Basically troublesome! I have removed the carb and cleaned it thoroughly. I have had the two jets out, using carb cleaner some surface dirt was evident and I have made sure each and every orifice is perfectly clean. I am satisfied the carb is perfectly clean as well and the float chamber kept full to the correct level. Now, having had the carb on and off and re-checked it, I have now switched attention to the ignition system and find there is no spark on either of the two plugs.
Symptons now:
# Increasingly difficult to start.
# When does eventually start will run at high rpm in neutral - runs under load at low rpm but sometimes dies and dies immediately if attempting high rpm under load.
# With plugs removed and new plug held against block, no spark can be seen at all.
# Red warning lamp flashes when attempting to start.
# Oil pressure switch is fine. (Wiring across switch makes no difference).
# Stop switch is fine. (Wiring across stop switch makes no difference).
# Voltage changes across Pulser Coil when rotated. (digital meter unable to measure actual voltage accurately *)
# Voltage changes across Exciter Coil when rotated. (ditto *)
# Voltage changes across LT input to Ignition Coil when rotated. (ditto *)
# With everything re-assembled and I work hard enough to get the engine started (very hard) it will first 'back-fire' then eventually even start and run as described above!

I now believe our CD Unit CU7256 or our Ignition Coil IG3796 is faulty. I have checked all electrical connections and they are fine.

Are there any specific tests I can carry out to determine which component is at fault?

Any further advice to help is most appreciated, please.

I currently have a well running nissan 25 1992 and have done much work on it as preventative maintenance. Anyway im contemplating picking up another 25hp 92 non running for a couple hundred bucks depending on whats wrong with it and trying to get it running and turn it around and sell it for a measly profit. Worst case scenario is i have a parts motor for my running 25? Any of you guys gotten yourself into flipping motors?

200 began shaking and had loss of power. Thought it was a miss. Did leak down test and found #6 cylinder doesn't hold pressure at all. This is a big leak and only on this cylinder. Any one ever have this type of issue? Pulling head tomorrow and praying its a gasket only. The engine is a 2006.

Hello

The problem is that the motor will not always run well at WOT If you pump the primer bulb then it runs normal again
I have tried with 2 fuel tanks Changed fuel lines inside the cover also bought a used fuel pump from a breaker.
Seem to run for a longer time now without problems It can run WOT 10-15 minutes before the problem starts.
The motor is easy to start and runs fine but not on wot.

Any info would be helpful.


Svein

Hello, I'm new to the forum and as I'm sure you see all to often, I found the site because I have a problem... I bought a small boat with an '01 ns8b on it. The motor appears to be very low hour (or at least well cared for) and in general starts and runs great however, when you wind it up to around the top 20% of the rpm range it doesn't want to rev clean. From back in my dirt bike days that seems to me like the main jet needs to be leaned out a bit. I pulled the carb apart and it all looks clean and in good shape. I'm at around 5,200 ft elevation or so and I have no idea where this motor originally came from so, it very well could be jetted for sea level. Does this sound like a logical first step to try and if so, does anyone know what would be a good size main to run at 5-7,000 ft? Thanks for any help you can give

where the heck is it? nothing in the manual about it? just how to change the oil. Is it something that i even want to tackle or let a dealer do it? Also anybody know what size it takes? you would think all this stuff would be in manual

I need to know the year of this Honda 7.5
this is what I found on it..

B75-3005403 Any Idea's?
Also they have numbers like this as well below,, which one would mine be? there are many more, I just figured you guys would get the idea if I posted a few... I need parts, and I need this info!!, Thanks guys!

B75K1 LD
B75K2 LD
B75K2 SD
B75K3 LD
B75K3 SD

I about to remove the lower unit on my honda 225. Looking for any advice. I guess it should be pretty staight forward.
Just remove the bolts and let in slide down. Anything i should be aware of. Should the motor be placed in gear or just neutral?

thanks
steve

laying on it's side when I stood upright leaked oil of I think out of exhaust hole is this common or do I have to tear apart

just bought it it's a 1984 model

A little boy yanked on the telltale hose and handed it to me... a short (2") piece of hose maybe 1/8" diameter.

I went to put it back, and can't figure out where it should connect. On the bottom where I thought it should go (see picture), there is a small hole, but too small I think for this piece of tubing. Maybe there was a barb fitting or something else that is now missing? How to reconnect?

Maybe it's not a big deal, and I'm just making myself worried picturing salt water spraying around inside somewhere...

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Hi everyone my tach is acting up. With the ignition off it's reading about 1500. With the engine idling its about right at 600, however once I'm at about 2200 to 2300 it shoots up till around 4500. When I'm at around 5000, its pegged at over 7000. I'm running twins and I've owned this boat for over 9 years so I'm sure the rpms are way off, however sync was not availble in 2003 so I really need to resolve this issue. Can these guages be calibrated and would that help given that it seems accurate at idle?

I recently bought a used pontoon boat with a Honda 50HP outboard. The Serial Number is BAZS 3213354, can anyone help figure out what year the motor is?

Im repowering from an 1988 Nissan 90 hp to a 2001 Nissan 140 hp. I have a 21 gallon tank. Should I expect to use more or less gas. I'm thinking since motor is newer and will have more power I will use less, but any advice or thoughts? I was currently underpowered.

I have a 1999 Honda BF50, It use to be so quite at idle you could hardly hear it running. Now it is louder like the exhaust is
above the water. What could it be, the exh pipe or the silencer?
Thanks for the help Ron