I'm trying to save a Neptune 10A2, c. 1940.

The piston is frozen in the cylinder. I believe from neglect and rust and not from scoring.
The connecting rod and crank are in good shape.
I have the cylinder flooded with PB Blaster, soaking.
Is there anything else I can try to loosen the piston?
It appears the piston is aluminum, the cylinder walls are cast iron, and the piston rings are steel, so I think the rings are stuck to the cylinder.
And, while we're here, is there a source for seals and gaskets, etc.?
Thanks,
J

I think it's a 1963 gale sovereign 40hp ran rough at idle but once throttled she took off (first day I bought it) then died checked for spark only lower cylinder. New plugs still nothing pulled flywheel and all parts look new and had new crimp eyelets (indicates recent installation?) set points to .020 trimmed wires on coil end re installed and had nice spark on upper cylinder and weak on lower. Tried to start anyway no start rechecked spark and nothing. This is with the two black wires from the coils disconnected.(kill switch wires I think? One to the key and one ground?) One black wired has a knife/s connector and the other has an eyelet. Does the eyelet go to terminal on the left hand side of the motor looking from rear of boat. That terminal is on a vacum sensor thing. Also there is a white wire coming from a switch block on top running off the timing plate to that vacum sensor. What is that switch button for? Also the round plastic part of one coil is a little loose slides on the metal plates? Points are new by the looks of them condensors and coils all look fresh.

Hi guys.

I've got JC Penny/ Eska 1975A 5.5hp with the Tecumseh AV600-643-20b power head.

With the help of you guys I got it running (needed points set, new coil and carb rebuild). got it running Tuesday night and after clearing its throat it ran real well.

So I came back tonight to hook it up to the water hose and see if the water pump works (it does.... thats the good news).

The problem is; after running great the other night now it 'pulses' (brap brap braaaaaap brap) also, it would only run with the choke fully engaged although it would smooth out a little at full throttle.

There's an outside chance of a loose electrical connection and I'll check for that but it seems rythmic and I suspect the carburetor. Question is; what could be wrong if it ran so well the other night? I've heard that the little red 'fuel pump' bladder is notorious for going out on these but I've also heard that that is normally associated with a backfire, which I did not experience. BTW I've also heard you don't need the fuel pump if you are going to run it off of the on-board fuel tank (gravity feed).... Is that true?

Any ideas?

I really do appreciate the help.

Jim

I just bought a 1957 montgomery ward sea king 5 hp outboard it is in realy good shape i bought it from the original owner who says it was running last time he used it (20+ years ago) it has good compresion with very low hours on it when i started to work on it i noticed the fuel system was very gummed up except for the gas tank which is like new so i just cleaned the carb by soaking it in a carb cleaner can put it back on and it will only run when i spray engine starting fluid in the air intake and then it dies it doesnt seem to be getting gas through the carb
The book say the motor is a 1957 wards sea king 5 hp deluxe model gg-8960a

alrighty fellow boaters I am brandnew to this world and this site and you all came highly recommended for information. I have cruised some of the past forums for the info and I might have missed it but I have the 7.5 horse seaking and im wondering if it has the impeller on the lower part and should it be " peeing". I see what looks like some intake holes. I will get a model number and some pictures after work to make it easier thanks again guys!

I have a small 'seagull' approx. 1960 one to two horse power with no spark
How do I test the coil?

Regards

I have a mid-1970's era 7.5 hp Sears Gamefisher motor. I believe its a Tecumseh built motor. Motor starts easily, runs forever at idle, but will bog down and stall under a load. Sometimes I can alleviate the problem by pulling out the choke knob a bit, while playing with the throttle. Any ideas on how to tackle this problem would be greatly appreciated. I assume I can still get parts , if necessary. There was a time when this ran real well at WOT , like to get there again. Thanks.

Hello Folks,


I picked up a 19?? Sears Elgin 7.5HP OB (Serial # 1597561.1645 / Model # C371.597561) and cannot find a listing at discount marine nor Elgin OUtboards websites on the year of this motor. I had it running once already, but it refuses to start once I put it away for a few days. What I am wondering is what year this motor might be and what the fuel to oil mixture is. Also, while it was running, I seem to get an electrical shock when I touch the motor to turn and make any fuel adjustments on the idle and running screws. I would like to replace the impeller in this also and use it on a 12' alum.
Does anyone have specs on fuel to oil, mixture screw settings, carb dismantle and reassm.?


Elgin 7.5.JPGElgin 7.5-1.JPG

Any help is greatly appreciated.

HQS

Attached Images

• Elgin 7.5.JPG (47.3 KB)
• Elgin 7.5-1.JPG (53.7 KB)

I have a 1970 Viking 20hp which I believe is a re-badged Chrysler. The motor is complete and in decent condition but does require a little TLC. I did a Google search for Chrysler parts but most sites don't list motors this old. Some items that I need for sure are a cylinder head + gasket, water pump impeller + associated seals / gaskets and ignition components.
Before I even get started on this project, I'd like to know if I'm wasting my time looking for stuff that's no longer available.
Thoughts?

i have a 1974 ted williams 9.9 hp, it seams to run well but when i run it in a bucket or barrel for just a minute or two, then shut it off, there is a lot of green oil and/or gas in the water and will burn up a half a water bottle of gas in just that short time. I dont know much about boat motors, but but would like to figure out whats going on? any help would be greatly appreciated. is it gas/oil, or maybe lower unit oil?

So i have a 45hp outboard, runs great when it was running, ran into issues with flywheel key now. Flywheel key snapped and stripped, then cam breaker snapped. Basically the cam breaker goes on cranshaft to move points then flywheel key sticks in bottom of cam breaker and in a grove on crankshaft them flywheel goes on.

I have replaced the key 3 times now and cracker two new cam breakers a total of $150 so far, i am about to throw the engine in the garbage, got ripped off on craigslist for this thing have replaced everything on it and when i get it running and using it this happens now. Any idea on why it would snap everytime i replace it. I have made sure its in tight and i find it hard to believe this happens....

Mid 50's scott atwater 3.6 hp.restoration completed on a childhood heirlmoom I'm trying to tract down. Decals or photos of to complete the job. Any ideas? Thanks, rudy. rudvrb549@gmail.com

Does anyone know where to get parts for this Italian outboard ?
ONAB (Carniti) 16 hp diesal

My 5HP outboard won't start. I stored it properly. (up right) Pulls real hard. Pulled spark plug, then turns over fine. End up messing up rewinder from trying to pull it so hard. Fixe that, and it breaks again. P.S. Did put drop of oil and cylinder. Any suggestions?

Bought at a yard sale recently and got it to pop and run but hesitantly, noticed fuel leaking from that pintle valve as well as around the float bowl of the underside of the bowl and maybe in need of a valve seat kit. Model number i come up with is a -59431 as far as i can make it. Engine tag numbers 643-14A, and Tag# 6743873,,How can i get a carb kit and or a float bowl kit (needle valve seat) for this particular outboard. Than You




_N2Outboards.

Attached Images

• TedWilliams1.jpg (130.1 KB)
• TedWilliams2.jpg (153.4 KB)