I know these had a built in tank - did they also have a fitting for an external tank?

really how much difference is there between the two? Is it that noticeable? same year engines 2006

I am new to the boating world and have very little knowledge on boats!
First, I have a mercury 115 HP motor on my pontoon. No idea what year it is, if it's 2, 4 or 6 cycle, or what kind of fuel/oil to put in it. Any ideas or information is greatly appreciated!

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I am searching for some new or used outboard motors and came across this website Blue Oceans Marine

Has anyone ever used them or know anything about them. I have not contacted them, I see their address says Indonesia.

But they have some really good deals on outboards. Usually if it looks too good to be true it probably is.

Hi All, hope this gets through I've tried posting this 3 times :)..newbie here!

Does anyone know of a list of ALL outboard motors? Not just the easy ones, I mean discontinued, outofbusiness, non-domestic.. a BIG list?

Has anyone got an oppinion on the Merc 25 hp 4 stroke tiller outboard compared to the Evinrude E-tech. Good ,bad, or indifferent.

Thanks

Hello,

I am by no means an expert when it comes to working on motors but I have done routine maintenance on mine for the last few years without issue. Long story short... I have my boat stored at a house where there is no running water in order to run it and do some carb cleaning and to make sure it will run this season when I put it in the water. The motor is a 45HP from the 70's, I believe 1975. With it not being at a location with water, I brought the motor home with me and have it stored in my garage on a stand that I built since last fall. The motor has electric key start, but that's built onto the boat and would have been a huge pain to disconnect all that as well to bring it home with me. I'm wondering if there is any way to run the motor manually? I've read some posts online and some say it's okay while others say you shouldn't, so any insight would be very helpful. I'd really prefer to run it here at my house and do some spring cleaning on it while also making sure it made it through the winter just fine rather than trying to put it in the water and find out it won't turn over and I have to take it out and bring it all the way back home.

1.) Can I use a pull cord on this and manually start it?

2.) Anything I would need to look out for?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

Hi, I have a 2012, 14 foot Smoker Craft Voyagure and I'm getting rid of the 1979 Johnson 25 hp electric start. I use the boat for fishing in Lake Ontario as well as smaller lakes. Would a 15 hp Electric start be strong enough and should I buy a 2 stroke or four stroke?

Thanks

I had the boat out of the water for spring cleaning and maintenance; the LU oil was black (Saturday) so Sunday had a pang of conscience and instructions from iboats so I changed it. The recommended oil is SAE90 but all I could get was 80W-90. Does that really matter?
I did not go from natural to synthetic
I know enough about outboards that they aren't that fragile and it won't fly to pieces when I leave the dock. Also b/c I already ran it from the ramp back home. But long-term--run it through the summer (50 hours or so and a few long hauls) or switch it out sooner?
150 Yam TXRB 2 stroke with a new SEI lower unit (1 1/2 years old)

thanks!

I am new to the outboard motor arena. I have previousely been a Mercruiser I/O user.

I just bought a 2007 Mercruiser 150hp 2 stroke V6.

What is the best gasoline to use? 87 or 89 octane from the car gas station? I know most boat dock gas is 89 octane with valve tech added already.

Also, if I use gas station gasoline, do I need to put additives into the tank as well. I used Valve Tech with my I/O, but that was with a 4 stroke motor.

Do I need to valve tech additive, or ethanol additives, when I fuel up, for my 2 stroke motor since oil is added to the gas before it goes into the engine for combustion anyway?

Just thought I'd make a list of common problems I've noticed over time and ways to avoid them, and things to check if problems arise.....

Lower unit oil---check for seal leaks, condition of oil. If oil is black and/or opaque, it needs changing.

Fuel line and/or oil injection lines-----check for kinks, leaks, cracks, line retainers being present, and whether they're ethanol resistant or not. Leaking fuel lines could easily catch your engine on fire!

Recoil starter rope----check for rope condition. If rope appears worn or has excessive abrasions, replace it. If the rope breaks, it could easily break your recoil spring as well.

Spark plug check---- check for water on plugs, electrode condition, color of each plug. If water is found, a common problem is the inner exhaust cover is corroded and water is spraying into the cylinders through pinholes created by the corrosion. I worked on a 2003 40 hp Yamaha with less than 20 hrs on engine and only run in fresh water that had a corroded inner exhaust cover plate and was spraying water in all 3 cylinders, but still idling pretty good. A bad head gasket is also a possible cause. A tan color on the insulator of your plug is what you want. If you see melted metal on the plug--detonation is occurring that will destroy your engine. If the plug is gray or white, that cylinder is running lean and could lead to scored pistons/cylinders.

Engine compartment check--- A quick look for dirt dauber nests (if you live in the south) may save your engine. The dirt can break loose and be sucked into your carb. Any kind of leak in the compartment is something that needs to be addressed. Check spark plug wires for abrasion, under the flywheel for a leaky upper main bearing seal, corrosion on electrical connectors or wires (FIX IT!!!), condition of sound insulation on cowl--if it's deteriorating replace it or remove it.

Water pump indicator check----if it's not working, run some weedeater string up through the hole to clear any insect nests or trash. If you notice any change in the indicator stream--it's a sign of a problem. Watch for intermittent flow, steam in the flow, bubbles in the flow, etc. Some larger outboards won't allow indicator flow until the thermostat opens up--so know your engine...

Prop check--- remove the prop and check for fishing line or other stuff on the propshaft that could cut an oil seal. Also pay attention that the blades of the prop have no dents, breaks, or improper bends. Bent props can cause excessive vibration that can prematurely wear your seals out and lead to water intrusion.

Tank check--- Is your vent open? Do you have gray fuel line? If so, I hate that gray fuel line and recommend replacing it with the good stuff. The OEM fuel lines are worth the money--even though they're high priced. Fuel injection line from an auto parts store is better than the gray stuff. The inner liner of that gray stuff will get broken down by the ethanol in today's fuel and break loose, thereby fouling carbs. The gray lines also harden in cold weather and will snap in two easily. The pickup tubes in tanks sometimes split, and the check valves can start sticking in the primer bulbs as well, both resulting in no fuel getting to the engine.

Battery check-- Clean connections, loose connections, water in battery reservoir full, proper voltage, etc. I like to use a voltmeter to make a quick check of my battery before going fishing. If you left the switch on, etc., then you won't know the battery is dead or low charge until you get to the lake and the motor won't start without a voltage check. I like my batteries to have at least 12.6 volts when going fishing. If less, the battery needs a charge or is going bad. I get around 12.9-13 volts when fully charged.

If anyone has anything to add, feel free to do so. There's nothing worse than a ruined trip due to a failed outboard!
Hopefully someone will find this thread useful.

Greeting all,

To get my 16' deep V to run straight I have to trim my outboard motor out so far that the water intake is barely underwater at cruising speed. The engine torque is to starboard and my trim tab anode is turned slightly starboard. If I turned the anode slightly more starboard would that help in keeping the trim farther in? My dealer is not open today & I am planning on leaving bright & early tomorrow a.m. Hot striper bite on the Upper Ches. Bay right now and I dont want to miss it. It's easy enough to make the trim tab adjustment I just don't want to something that would adversely affect the performance.......Thanks.

My god father passed away, this was his boat, i now have it but don't know what kind of motor it is. (he literly had 4+ storage units full of motors and tanks, but my god mother just sold them all to some guy that paid however much to take them all away)

I do know that it takes a pressured gas tank as when i cleaned it up to try it out i realized my tank doesn't fit on this motor :( and from what i can tell from the marina that i spoke to, it may be a hassle finding one around. boat motor.jpg

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I have a 14' Livingston - it's one with the windshield, hard plastic bow cover, and steering wheel that make it look like a regular old runabout. I've had it a couple of years, and have had nothing but headaches with the 20 hp Evinrude motor that I have - some of which involve the throttle and shifter controls, etc.

Last week I was at a fishing lodge for a day, and got to cruise around a lake in a 12' boat with a 6hp motor with a tiller handle. It was a lot of fun, and I enjoyed the simplicity of the motor.

However, here in Tacoma, a lot of the boating and fishing we do is in the Puget Sound - a lot bigger water than the little lake in NH that I was on.

I'm looking for opinions at this point - what do you think is best for fishing and pulling the kids around on a tube in the Sound.....a tiller motor, or the remote steering set up that I currently have?

Thanks for your input.

MIT