Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights.

[Baytown.boy]

I Need a very very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Mounting the red and green on seperate sides of a center console and the anchor light in the back, thanx.

[Don S]

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....=1#post2745677

[ajgraz]

Hmm, may want to make sure that red and green mounted on your center console meets all the visibility requirements:
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/sidelights.htm

Especially the part where they are visible x degrees above and below horizontal.

[Baytown.boy]

These are the navagation lights I will be using. I had used these same on another boat I had built about 4 years ago I had bought off Ebay.

The navagation lights diagram drawing I found in my files, I had used on same boat, just could not remember where it was until now. I used a pull pull switch.

Thanx for yalls help again, good fishin.

[jhebert]

...The navagation lights diagram drawing I found in my files....

That is a nice drawing of rectangles and lines with random colors used, but it is not an electrical drawing that makes any sense.

[Baytown.boy]

That is a nice drawing of rectangles and lines with random colors used, but it is not an electrical drawing that makes any sense.

What do you see wrong with it?, and then make corrections that are needed and post please.
The switch is a pull pull type with three terminals. Pull once and the anchor/white light comes on, and pull again and the red and green console lights come on, and the white/anchor light also stays on.
Let me know so I can correct it before I run my wires tomorrow.

[NYBo]

You run the negative leads from all the lights to the battery negative (or the negative buss under the console); the positive side for all lights goes through the switch. Same concept as in the top diagram in the thread that was linked By Don.

[Silvertip]

There are four problems with the diagram. 1) A switch should not have a negative liine connected to it. Negative lines go to ground (wherever you find it -- that's not on the switch) 2) the diagram does not show "where" on the switch each wire goes. Push-pull nav light switches, just like the three, six, and seven terminal toggle or rocker switches, must be wired correctly. Your diagram does not show that. 3) Your use of red and black wires is incorrect. Red is the positive feed. Only one red wire should exit the battery (or preferably the fuse panel) INTO the switch. The red wires TO the lights runs FROM the switch TO the lights. Grounds (black wires) FROM the lights connects to a ground buss or the negative terminal of the battery. 4) You show a red line going from the battery directly to the stern light and also to the switch. Wrong! The positive line for any light comes from the switch, not directly from the battery (unless you happen to want the light on all the time).

[Baytown.boy]

Ok, yes I know yall think I'm a big dummy, but I think with yalls help, I got it figured out in my mind and on paper, see diagram below, thanx again for all yalls help. Let me know if I'm wrong. The last diagram was the one I had that was wrong 4 years ago and had to change it up also.

[Don S]

To use a push/pull switch, you are going to need the right kind of switch, several look the same on the outside, but work differently inside.
You need an Off- On circuit 1 - On circuit 1 and 2.
Circuit 1 will be your anchor light, and circuit 2 will be your bow/side lights.
My drawing may be off as to which terminal on the switch is actually battery, 1 and 2, as they change from manufacturer to manufacturer, just look at the instructions that come with the switch you get. Here are a couple from iboats http://www.iboats.com/Sierra-Push-Pu...-view_id.47136








.

[jhebert]

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...ghtSwitch.html

[Baytown.boy]

Don S.
I already have the switch, just got my wires were crossed!! I was looking at an old diagram that was wrong. 4 years ago, and is still wrong. LOL
All is working right now. I had a tiller motor, and now have installed a center console and steering and the boat mechanic drilled a 2" hole from the back and into the front of the rear seat filled with foam for a wiring tunnel and put in a piece of PVC pipe, and run all the cables thru to the console. Now running the bilge pump and white anchor light wires into the tunnel so I can hook them up. That is all the wires in the tunnel now. All lights, GPS, dept finder, bilge pump will go thru a fuse panel under the console and switches will be on it also. All wires will be hooked onto the troll motor battery that is under the console now. Now just have to hook up the start/choke key switch and I'm fishing. Thanx for all yalls help, Doyle

[Silvertip]

Just to clarify --- Nobody said or even insinuated that you were a dummy. You asked for help and it was given.

[Baytown.boy]

I was laughing at myself for some dumb mistakes I make. I think the older I get, the less I know. I know I have C.R.S. disease now, LOL.
I used a wiring diagram that was given to me approx 4 years ago and it was wrong then and is still wrong now. Had in an old file , the only one and just printed it, tried it and it would not work, so I asked for yalls help. I do appreciate it very much. That file has been replaced by the right version. thanx, Doyle.

[lauke]

Where is the fuse??

[Fireman431]

In the event you decide to go with the proper 3 position switch (NAV-OFF-ANC), here is the diagram you should use. I recommend going with a marine rated switch instead of a 3 position push/pull. The proper switch is only $6.00 or so.


switch.jpg

[Baytown.boy]

I don't have a $6.00 proper switch, mine is a non proper $15.00 switch by Cole Hersee, You get what you pay for. I already had the switch, so that is what I used. Thanx for yalls help, good fishin.

Found this quote in another forum.
Quote: I've yet to find a switch that lasts forever in the salt environment, only ones that last longer than others. The old standard pull switches do a fine job and are simple and easy to replace. As with anything, you get what you pay for and the cheaper ones don't last a year or two before they start getting "sweet spots" where you have to jiggle them to keep the lights on. It's all because of the nature of ANY mechanical switch, there is a shaft that has a seal that will eventually let water in and wipe it out. Pull's or toggles, they all have the same issue.

Toggles are gaining popularity because they can be part of the boats switch panel instead of having a lot of pull buttons all over the place. Makes a neater, cleaner installation and is easier to wire up.

Sticking with the more expensive brands (Cole Hersee, Carlingswitch, Blue Seas) should give you twice the lifetime over the cheaper knock offs that don't use quality components.

[henkemm]

i have a nitro bass boat and am having a problem with my nav/anc lights. front red/green light has three wires to it. white, gray, and black. the pole itself only has two pins. the switch has three terminals on it. 12V in, one for anc, and one for nav. my problem is that the front light is not grounded to battery ground. the two wires that plug into pole light both run back up to the switch. can anyone help? light used to work but now doesn't work properly. not sure what happened. does this sound even remotely right to anyone?

[Don S]

Welcome to iboats henkemm
You need to start a new thread with YOUR problem, not hijack someone elses thread. You need troubleshooting help not how to wire in new lights.

[henkemm]

Don, not sure how to start a new thread. Looked in FAQ and didn't see anything in there about how to do this. Kinda new to the whole forum thing. Sorry. Thanks, Matt

[Bond-o]

Don, not sure how to start a new thread. Looked in FAQ and didn't see anything in there about how to do this. Kinda new to the whole forum thing. Sorry. Thanks, Matt

Ayuh,... At the top left corner of each forum is a big blue button titled "+ Post New Thread"....

[Silvertip]

Don, not sure how to start a new thread. Looked in FAQ and didn't see anything in there about how to do this. Kinda new to the whole forum thing. Sorry. Thanks, Matt

You go back to the first page of the electrical forum (not the top of this page). At the upper left is a button for starting a new thread.