Last edited by Bob_VT; June 25th, 2010 at 03:43 PM.
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That is what these forums are for. Post your questions, in the appropriate Forum.
Here ya go! The gold color wire is actually yellow. Had to use gold as the yellow doesn't show up well. The timer will have a fourth wire going to the pump. Don't know what color that is on your timer. When you get it hooked up, if the timer runs in the MANUAL position, or the vice versa, just reverse the two wires at the top and bottom terminals on the switch. The switch label should read OFF (center) TIMER (Up or down) and MANUAL (up or down).
A three pole switch (On-Off-On) cannot be wired correctly unless a diode is incorporated into it. Nav/Anchor lights must be operated as follows: Under way both the bow and stern lights must be on. When anchored ONLY the stern light should be on. You cannot wire the switch correctly unless the switch includes the previously mentioned diode or unless a six terminal switch is used.
Here is the diagram - yet again: There must now be close to sixty posts on this topic.
Switch with three terminals:
Switch with six terminals:
The number of questions regarding wiring of the gauges on a boat is never ending and even though there are schematics/diagrams in the stickies, folks can't seem to follow them. So here is a pictorial of how to do this. Four gauges are shown connected in a daisy chain fashion. This is the preferred method for wiring since it ends up with a single wire connection for power, ground, sense, and light wires. Wiring the gauges individually would result in a bundle of wires at the power, ground and light sources. A fuel gauge, a voltmeter, a temperature gauge and a tach are represented in this example. It should be plainly obvious how to add additional gauges (such as a trim gauge) as they have the very same connections. In this example, the internal light connections use "spade" terminals which the other connections use ring terminals. 16 AWG wire is adequate for this wiring. Using heavy gauge wire is a waste of money and makes it difficult to create a neat harness due to bend radius issues. Gauges using ring terminals on threaded posts should always use the double nut connections. The nut closest to the housing merely secures the post to the case. Place the ring terminal on that nut and then install another nut which will usually have a star washer attached or it may have a speparate washer.
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