So, there seems to be a lot of activity going with on my newly brought home Starcraft Jet (year unknown) and my 1960 Glastron FireFlite. It only makes sense to honor the boat that started it:
Either a 2 part solo canoe/kayak:
Maximum beam across bottom chine of center module = 34"+/-
Beam at module bulkheads for through bolts = 32.5"+/-
Transom width = 23"
3pc length = 11' 9" +/-
2pc length = 7' 9" +/-
'Rated' for a 30lb thrust electric trolling motor & standard battery not a deep cycle (weight) battery is kept in rear of forward most module, under your knees.
It is a break down design by Ken Simpson @ Arizona, one of his Portable Boats designs. It's the Kayak++ model. It is made using TiteBond 3 & fiberglass tape. The treated w/ Thompson's water sealer for a little added protection and several coats of oil based polyruethane. Sat afternoon this weekend it got a coat of water based poly. Ken's a great guy, very helpful when building the boat & very quick to respond to questions! His plans all include detailed layout & fab directions. There are free plans on his site for some optional items, modifying a electric trolling motor shaft to make it the correct length shaft for a shallow boat (instead of the standard 30" shaft). A double ended 'kayak' style paddle out of plywood & a piece of gray plastic conduit.
I used luaun ply, added 2" to the beam along the keel, made the optional center section a full 48" long, and made some minor changes to the layout & design of the cap sections to allow for some of the other changes, and a slightly reduced weight. The modules are all light enough for most people to handle very easily, and it is fairly stable, when seated on a square PFD cushion. The slight twist in the side panels significantly improves their rigidity. It is designed to be easily transported & assembled at the water's edge. There are 6-7" bulkheads at the end of each module, that are bolted together with 3/8" through bolts & large fender washers. I also chose to add brass bushings to the through bolt holes to reduce fatigue & wear & tear on the luaun ply:
I had access to a planer & plenty of really nice rough sawn walnut, so that's all the dark wood you see. Ken's design had the bow's 'stem' created with just the 2 hull sides glued together & glassed over. I added the Walnut stem w/ an oak center:
I started on her July 4th weekend 2011, and splashed Tues pm the day after Labor Day 2011. It was a very hot summer on the 2nd floor of our shop w/ no A/C or fans..... 1st you build the transom:
and all the bulkheads taking the time to make sure they are all the same size, else it won't bolt together very well:
I slightly modified the area of the through bolt, for better support of the bushings & the fender washers. Essentially, the plywood gusset & walnut backer are the same size. Ken had the backer smaller then the gusset for keeping the through bolt tucked in closer to the hull's sides. By making the gusset & backer bigger I could move the bolt inward & get a better clamping force on the bulkhead as a whole.
To make sure the center section matches up, Ken recommends doing it now w/ everything else. Always keeping it square & cross checked:
2 shots of the 3Pc:
Once you get the hull bottom attached, you round over the edge & use TB3 & glass tape(2 layers) 1st 2"-3" & then a 2nd of 4"-6" so there is overlap onto bare wood. Then you flip it & start to work on fitting the cap:
To give it a little more of a classic look, I ran a slight peak along the top of the cap:
I would have liked to have done a curve/arched piece, but I was concerned about making sure the curve was even & faired across the beam of the boat, so, I gave it a peak. And I like the results.
Once the cap is fit & glued down, you run the same glass tape & TB3 schedule on every edge inside & out. Including any areas where the ply had to be cut to contour (along the keel & cap):
Once all the joints are finished, you add chine rails along the top & bottom:
That's about all I've got. Enjoyed building it, hope to put it to good use soon. I highly recommend it to anyone, esp those w/ some basic carpentry skills & tools. You can use off the shelf 1X & 3/4" stock instead of fabbing walnut or whatever. I had access to it so I used it!