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  1. #1
    Cadet
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    Default Re-lag Bolt or Through Bolt

    I had just completed a successful sea trial after replacing all of the bellows and shift cables on my 1988 Welcraft 210 Classic. While standing on the teak swim step in the parking lot after pulling out, the upper lag bolt pulls out of the transom. “DARN” I think I said as I caught my balance. This is one of four upper lag bolts. There are also four gussets that run from the stern edge of the step to about a foot below the water line (8 fasteners into the transom total).

    I have not inspected the blind hole created by the lag to check the condition of the wood. The boat is in great shape and do not anticipate a dry rot problem when I do inspect.

    Is the correct repair to drill through the transom and use nuts, bolts and washers to refasten the bracket or possibly fill the hole and create another blind hole?

    Also, is 3M 5200 the correct sealant for this application or is there something better?

    Thanks for the help.

  2. #2
    Senior Chief Petty Officer DBreskin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Re-lag Bolt or Through Bolt

    Quote Originally Posted by Weirthit View Post
    I have not inspected the blind hole created by the lag to check the condition of the wood. The boat is in great shape and do not anticipate a dry rot problem when I do inspect.
    The bolt should not fall out spontaneously. There has to be a reason it lost grip. You may not have dry rot; you may have wet rot.
    If the wood it sound you can lag it and use 5200 to seal it, but I'm guessing the wood isn't sound or the bolt wouldn't have come loose in the first place. If you do find rot be sure to check the other bolts and the rest of the transom.

    Good luck!
    1992 Four Winns Horizon 200 5.8L OMC Cobra. If you're looking for me on the water, watch for the striped bimini.

    1983 Prindle 16 catamaran
    Old Town Penobscot 16 canoe
    Fanatic F100 Sailboard

  3. #3

    Default Re: Re-lag Bolt or Through Bolt

    I had the same problem with my boat, except that the PO had used stainless wood screws that were definitely too small for the job. I went to my local hardware store and bought some stainless bolts, locknuts, and fender washers and thru-bolted it. I sealed the holes with 5200 and haven't had any problems since. Seems to me that in a weight-bearing application like that, thru-bolting is a better, if not safer option anyway. I'd hate to see someone have to go to the hospital after the swim platform gives way under their feet as they're entering/exiting the boat. Just don't be too shocked at the price of the bolts. If memory serves, four 1/4x3" stainless bolts, nylock nuts and fender washers cost me the better part of a $10 bill. Well worth the peice of mind, but still kinda pricey in my opinion.

  4. #4
    Captain 64osby's Avatar
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    Default Re: Re-lag Bolt or Through Bolt

    If the transom checks out a SS bolt though bolted with a fender washer would fix it so it wouldn't happen again. If you have access to it. Re due the others while your there.

    5200 is the right stuff, it also has a 7 day cure time.
    Despite the cost of Living, It's still a popular thing

    1973 Starcraft 21 mariner that's no longer for sale & 1963 14' Lone Star Big Fisherman Repairs

  5. #5
    Captain
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    Default Re: Re-lag Bolt or Through Bolt

    Agreed, the bolt should not have pulled out. ALERT! 5200 is permanent, no changes. 4200 will do the same job with the ability to be changed or reinspected. ps: through bolts are always a better choice given rear access.

  6. #6
    Cadet
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    Default Re: Re-lag Bolt or Through Bolt

    All lags are out now and the transom seems to check out. By check out I mean I pushed a screw driver into the wood that was exposed by the hole made by the lag bolts. It seemed to be solid.

    Is there a better way of checking?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Re-lag Bolt or Through Bolt

    Quote Originally Posted by Weirthit View Post

    Is there a better way of checking?
    If you have access to the inside of the transom you can drill several holes halfway through the transom and check the wood chips that come out. I have ovens and sensitive scales at my disposal so I've actually measured the moisture content of wood taken from a transom (and in my case it was very very wet). But even without all that equipment you can tell a lot by looking at the wood shavings.

    If everything is ok then you seal up the holes with a slurry of fiberglass resin, milled fiber, and cabosil and your good to go. (For that matter I guess you could seal it with 5200).

  8. #8
    Admiral jigngrub's Avatar
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    Default Re: Re-lag Bolt or Through Bolt

    Quote Originally Posted by foodfisher View Post
    5200 is permanent, no changes.
    If you have the right tools nothing is permanent.
    I consider overkill a job well done... plus a little extra.

    There's as many ways to do something as there is people to tell you how to do it... but not all of them are the right way.

    The drinking and debauchery will continue until morale improves... and maybe for a little while after.

  9. #9
    Master Chief Petty Officer SDSeville's Avatar
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    Default Re: Re-lag Bolt or Through Bolt

    I must be buying the wrong 5200 because it is not that hard to remove. It is not like the permanent Locktite where you have to use heat to get it loose.
    SDSeville
    1986 19' Sea Ray Seville BR
    Merc 470 A679763/Alpha 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=380371 (Splashed!)

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