1974 duo remote control help. Please!!!!

[kjmacke]

Hello bought this boat from a guy and he fired it up put it in gear and everything was great. The problem is I don't know how the remote works and the guy has moved out of town. It is a single handle with a knob in the center that pulls out. Can someone tell me how to start the boat what to do with this knob that pulls out. Here is a pic of the remote on the boat. I am knew to boating so don't laugh too much. Thanks Kelly

[kjmacke]

Hello bought this boat from a guy with a 120 mercruiser and he fired it up put it in gear and everything was great. The problem is I don't know how the remote works and the guy has moved out of town. It is a single handle with a knob in the center that pulls out. Can someone tell me how to start the boat what to do with this knob that pulls out. Here is a pic of the remote on the boat. I am knew to boating so don't laugh too much. Thanks KellyDSC01301 (2).jpg

[jestor68]

Most likely that knob that pulls out is to disengage the shift mechanism so you only move the throttle for starting the engine.

Some push in; some pull out to disengage the shifter. When you return the handle to the upright position after working just the throttle, you should see(and hear) that knob "click" back into position to engage the shifter again.

[Reel Poor]

While holding the knob out, engage the throttle then release the knob. In this mode you have acceleration control of the engine without engaging the drive. Once the throttle is returned to the neutral position this function stops and normal operation of the control handle resumes.
To start, pull knob out and pump throttle forward to maximum position two times then return to 1/4 to 1/2 throttle position and start engine. Repeat as necessary keeping in mind not flooding the engine. Once the engine starts return throttle to about 1000 to 1200 RPM's and let the engine warm up before returning the throttle to the neutral position.

[kjmacke]

Thanks reel poor for the help. Here is what is going on. I pulled the knob out and it stayed out. Pushed the throttle foward until I felt and indent. From there went foward with a couple of pumps like you said. Wow boat started with a real fast idle. Pulled the lever back until I felt this indent spot again the idle came down to what I felt like was idle. At this point the lever is around 10 or 11 oclock. The knob is still pulled out. Now when I pull the lever back up to the 12 oclock postion the motor dies and won't restart until the lever is back down in that indent spot I feel which is around 10 or 11 oclock. All the while the knob is still out. The knob does not feel like it is spring loaded. I have to push it in if I want it to go in. The part that is fishy is when the lever is at 12 oclock motor dies and won't restart until I move the lever back towards the 10 oclock postion. I have not tried to put it in gear yet. Thanks Kelly

[kjmacke]

Thanks Jestor68 for your help. The knob pulls out or I have to push it back in. There is no clicking back into place. The boat starts with the lever around 10 oclock knob out. When I move lever back to 12 oclock which I assume is nuetral the engine will die and the knob is still pulled put. Thanks for anymore input or ideas you can throw my way. Kelly

[Bubba1235]

Sounds like it needs adjustment. Moving it to the 12:00 o'clock position should put the drive in neutral.

[Bond-o]

Thanks reel poor for the help. Here is what is going on. I pulled the knob out and it stayed out. Pushed the throttle foward until I felt and indent. From there went foward with a couple of pumps like you said. Wow boat started with a real fast idle. Pulled the lever back until I felt this indent spot again the idle came down to what I felt like was idle. At this point the lever is around 10 or 11 oclock. The knob is still pulled out. Now when I pull the lever back up to the 12 oclock postion the motor dies and won't restart until the lever is back down in that indent spot I feel which is around 10 or 11 oclock. All the while the knob is still out. The knob does not feel like it is spring loaded. I have to push it in if I want it to go in. The part that is fishy is when the lever is at 12 oclock motor dies and won't restart until I move the lever back towards the 10 oclock postion. I have not tried to put it in gear yet. Thanks Kelly

Ayuh,.... Yer 10 o'clock, vs; 12 o'clock could be in it's mounting...

The button ain't supposed to be spring loaded...

In neutral,...
Ya pull it out for throttle only,... that's the lever position, from the detent to Wot,...
No reverse movement needed, nor wanted....
Return to neutral detent, 'n Push the button in....
Now yer ready to go Boatin',...
Forward is forward, 'n reverse is reverse, both throttle, 'n gear engagement...

Hey,.... RP,.... Long time no see,... Good to see ya Bud,....

[Bond-o]

Kelly,... Please ask yer question in Only 1 forum....

Multiple postin's leads to mass confusion amongst regular posters, answerin' questions...

Thank you...

[kjmacke]

Yes Bond-o my bad. Posted in wrong forum to start with. Won't happen again. So your telling me when I go past the detent spot to start the engine then go back to the detent that is idle. At that point I push the knob in and ready to go??? Well that postion is around 10 oclock for the detent spot. When I move the lever up to 12 oclock the engines dies and won't restart until the lever is back at 10 oclock. I have not tried putting it in gear yet thinking the detent spot is where it will engage so how can I push the button in when the lever is in the detent spot which is at 10 oclock on my lever. Really confused??? Kelly

[kjmacke]

Help!!!! This is where I am at. Engine starts and runs with knob out and lever around 10 oclock whick feels like it is in the dentend spot. From there the knob will not push in. When the lever is moved back towards 12 oclock the engine dies but at that point I can push the knob back in. I only have one nerve left and my wife is really pissed off because I told her we were going boating. Anybody have anything to help. Maybe something needs adjusting I don't know where to start. Thanks Kelly

[NYBo]

Is this an OMC motor? I'm thinking a shift interrupter problem.

[kjmacke]

Thanks NYBo for the response. It is 1974 120 mercruiser. kjmacke

[kjmacke]

Ok this is where I am at. I noticed there is a plunger type switch on the back side of the remote. Two wires coming from switch one looks like the hot side the other going to my key switch. When knob is pulled out engine cranks and starts with just the throttle cable only working. Now when I move the lever back to 12 oclock the engine dies but still cranks when trying to restart. Have to move lever back down to 10 oclock engine fires right up. Move lever back to 12 oclock which should be nuetral engine dies again. Then if you push button in the engine won't even crank over. The lever is still at 12 oclock. button out engine cranks button in no crank on the engine. lever at 10 oclock button out the engine cranks and fires button won't push in until lever is at 12 oclock. leave button in and you get both trottle and shift cable movement but you get no crank on the engine. Wow really confusing guys!!!!!

[Bond-o]

Ok this is where I am at. I noticed there is a plunger type switch on the back side of the remote. Two wires coming from switch one looks like the hot side the other going to my key switch. When knob is pulled out engine cranks and starts with just the throttle cable only working. Now when I move the lever back to 12 oclock the engine dies but still cranks when trying to restart. Have to move lever back down to 10 oclock engine fires right up. Move lever back to 12 oclock which should be nuetral engine dies again. Then if you push button in the engine won't even crank over. The lever is still at 12 oclock. button out engine cranks button in no crank on the engine. lever at 10 oclock button out the engine cranks and fires button won't push in until lever is at 12 oclock. leave button in and you get both trottle and shift cable movement but you get no crank on the engine. Wow really confusing guys!!!!!

Ayuh,... That's the neutral safety switch,... It only controls the starter...

Disconnect the Shift Cable, from the controller, at the Transom, 'n try it....

[kjmacke]

Ok Bond-o I will give that a try and get back with you. Bye the way thanks for everything you are doing for me!!!! Kjmacke

[kjmacke]

Hey Bond-o, ok I Disconnected the Shift Cable, from the controller, at the Transom. Pulled out knob on shifter moved shifter to the detent couple strokes for fuel and fired it up. Let run about a minute on fast idle then moved the lever back to the detent for normal idle. At this point the lever is still at 10 oclock. Pulled lever back to 12 oclock and engine died. With the knob still out the engine will crank over but will not start . Now if I push the knob in which the only way the knob will go in is if the lever is at 12 oclock. The engine will not crank over. Bond-o as I stated earlier the switch on the back side of remote has a plunger that goes in and out depending where your knob is at. Could there be another type of switch inside the remote that I can't see that works with this plunger to make everything work correctly. Thanks Kjmacke

[Bond-o]

Hey Bond-o, ok I Disconnected the Shift Cable, from the controller, at the Transom. Pulled out knob on shifter moved shifter to the detent couple strokes for fuel and fired it up. Let run about a minute on fast idle then moved the lever back to the detent for normal idle. At this point the lever is still at 10 oclock. Pulled lever back to 12 oclock and engine died. With the knob still out the engine will crank over but will not start . Now if I push the knob in which the only way the knob will go in is if the lever is at 12 oclock. The engine will not crank over. Bond-o as I stated earlier the switch on the back side of remote has a plunger that goes in and out depending where your knob is at. Could there be another type of switch inside the remote that I can't see that works with this plunger to make everything work correctly. Thanks Kjmacke

Nope,.... The lever, 'n cable is outa sync,.... donno why, but it is....

What happens at 10 o'clock, should be happenin' at 12 o'clock....

It's a mechanical malfunction,....

[kjmacke]

Bond-o Thanks for all your input. Can I try and bypass the nuetral safety switch???? Kjmacke

[Bond-o]

Bond-o Thanks for all your input. Can I try and bypass the nuetral safety switch???? Kjmacke

Ayuh,... It's NOT the problem.. it only effects Starting...ei: the Starter..

[kjmacke]

Bond-o you were right as normal. It was mechanical. The cam that controls the throttle stop on the carb was some how flipped over causing the throttle to move just enough when going from 10 oclock back up to 12 oclock. This made the engine die. It would happen so fast it felt like and sounded like it was electrical. Flipped the cam back over so the throttle had the stop back and it worked perfect. Thanks Bond-o for everything. Could not have done this without you!!!!!!!! Kjmacke

[Bond-o]

Bond-o you were right as normal. It was mechanical. The cam that controls the throttle stop on the carb was some how flipped over causing the throttle to move just enough when going from 10 oclock back up to 12 oclock. This made the engine die. It would happen so fast it felt like and sounded like it was electrical. Flipped the cam back over so the throttle had the stop back and it worked perfect. Thanks Bond-o for everything. Could not have done this without you!!!!!!!! Kjmacke

Ayuh,... Thank you, for the thanks.... Glad I could Help...