I would not suggest it..I have done some through hull under water apps..but with some tricks..
For what application ??
no, not right and not with good adhesion
i have a leaky pontoon and no way to haul it out, no trailer no ramp.
Can you beach it sideways and get to the location of the leak? If not maybe a marina has a trailer you can use.
no ramp, small pond, gonna have to jack it up in the water somehow. maybe an engine lift? any idea what a 20 foot toon weighs?
2 truck innertubes and some straps, one on each side, inflate them and they'll lift it up.
if at a dock rent an engine hoist, nail a 2x4 in front of the wheels
See FAQ Files.
Get the genuine factory service manual.
Marine epoxy stick made by bondo will adhere and set underwater. Use a swim mask and go to the leak. It would be a good time to stop the leak first.......
I have no idea of weight but we have an iboater here that builds pontoons for a living...... he will probably pop in.
The absolute proper way to stop a leak when the boat is out of the water is to have it welded.
This is a great link to boat specifications http://boatspecs.iboats.com/Please, shop iboats first!!
5200 will cure underwater, it's designed to do so, and in fact it needs moisture to cure.
It'll be very hard to stick it onto a wet surface though, so I wouldn't try to actually apply it underwater unless you have to do so. But no worries putting the boat back in the water before the 7 day curing period is up, provided there's not a lot of pressure on it.
Sea Ray SRV-210 - Winter refit
75-85 foot displacement hull trawler - gleam in my eye
I might offer a little different perspective...
It is my understanding that 5200 cure is isocyanate based - water reacts with isocyanate groups to form amines, amines react with other isocyanates to form ureas linking the molecules together and increasing the the strength, water and solvent resistance each time a new bond forms.
In addition, isocyanate groups are reacting with groups on the surfaces that the caulk is in contact with, chemically bonding it to the surface and covering polar groups that would let water wick between the sealer and surface it is being applied to. If there is too much water (as in immersed in water), a large portion of the isocyanates are converted to amines and do not have time to react thorooughly as described above - hence the reason for the delay before putting it in water. For maximum adhesion, strength, water and solvent resistance, you want slow cure from airborne moisture...
will it work if you put it right in water? perhaps, probably, etc...??? depends on the specific application and so forth. is it going to do much better if the instructions are followed? very likey so.
Hello again lucky..
Just wondering..if you have a leak in your toon..and cant find a trailer ( Im sure your not the only toon in town )
Then are you planning on getting the water out of said toon ?
Of course that would be done out of the water right ?
Or do you plan on sealing the water in there ..
Send an email to the 3M tech support group. They will give you the info you need.
I have seen an epoxy system (perhaps the same as Bob_VT suggested) that claims to adhere AND cure in wet conditions AND underwater. Never used it so can't make any claims one way or the other.
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