I purchased an older Wellcraft, 1992, a few weeks ago. It is 19.6 feet with a 4.3 alpha gen two out drive. I knew it was going to be a lot of work when I bought it. Our family has had a couple of boats that were used for fishing and skiing when the children were still at home. They are grown with children of their own so it is just me and my wife. I am getting close to retirement and we decided since we still live on the water with a dock out in the back yard, we should get a boat. If we do not get one now we will be too old to enjoy. Both my sons have sail boats so there are boats in the family. With all of that said, I am starting a thread on my undertaking.
I have a lot of experience with construction and farm equipment repair, woodworking, general house construction, welding, pretty much a jack of all trades. I know a little about a lot. I like to tinker with, build and repair just about anything. This however, is my first attempt at fiberglass boat work.
I have been reading a LOT on this forum about boats, boat repair and boat rebuilding. I am looking forward to the challenge. More excited about getting back out on the lake before it gets too hot.
With all of this said, I need to get started.
Congrats on your purchase and good luck on the refurb/rebuild. Looks like the hull is in good shape. Get a photobucket account started so you can show full size pics. Its easy and free as long as you don't load a million photos on there. Then its like 2 bucks a month.
Am I missing something about the pics? If I click on the thumbnail, it comes up as a full size picture. How is the photobucket better? Will indeed do it if it is the better way to go.
You are correct. The hull is in good shape. All of the upholstery is done and ready to put back in.
Here is a pic of the engine. The floors are soft and the engine mounts look bad so I went ahead and pulled the engine. The outdrive is already in the shop and am in the process of replacing seals and waterpump, anodes, etc.
My hoist in the garage was almost too low to get over the transom. I had to let the air out of the trailer tires to get it to clear.
Now on the the rest of the teardown. I much prefer mechanical work!
Take a look at my thread real quick and you will see the difference. It is irritating to some to have to click on a pic everytime you want to see something. Especially if it is a long rebuild. It helps people see what you are talking about as there reading imo.
Question concerning transom replacement. I am ready to glue the new transom and discovered that the fiberglass part of the hull transom is off about a 1/2' from top to bottom around the cutout for the drive. Can I use peanut butter for the glue and allow it to make up the gap or will this not allow proper adhesion?
If this is not the way to go about it. How should it be done? Buildup with fiberglass and CMS? I want to try and get this done tomorrow. Hope one of you that does a lot of this work can give me the correct way to make this repair.
Last edited by eclipse196; March 1st, 2012 at 11:46 PM.
Reason: Need better description
As you can see, the transom was pretty well rotted away around the drive cutout opening. In removing the outer skin the majority of the transom was rotten to the point that mush would describe most of it. One of the motor mounts looked like it had been repaired. Both mounts looked pretty bad.
Now that I have had help getting the pictures posted, I will go back and get some of this cleaned up.
The PO told me he had done a new floor about 5 years ago. What I found was they just screwed a new floor over the rot. They did not even resin the CSM, just laid it as filler.
The rotten floor made it really easy to remove the floor.
In your photobucket album, hover your cursor over the pic you want to post. A drop down window will appear like this...
Click the IMG Code window (the bottom one) and it will say Copied. Now return to your iBoats thread and place your cursor where you want the pic to be, hold down the Ctrl key and while holding it down click the "V" key and it will paste the link to the pic in your post. Really simple.
Now have the transom built and ready to glue in. I had some 5/4 cedar that I had not used for another project. I ran it through my planer and glued it together. Cut it into the shape of the original transom.
While measuring the transom, I discovered that the fiberglass skin of the hull was not even. It is thinner at the top and tapers down to the bottom.
I have built my clamps for the glueup and am ready to glue in the morning.
My plan is to use gorilla glue since it is really strong, is water proof and will fill voids. I would think this would solve my problem of getting the transom true according to the mercruiser spec for the transom.
If I am wrong, tell me, this is going to happen tomorrow.
I would use Epoxy resin not gorilla glue. Gorilla glue is not any easier to work with is not as strong and will not bond like epoxy. I use express composites in minneapolis they will ship to Iowa next day for about $10 Via Speedee. You can also get fillers, glass mat and cavisil there also. You have gone this far, use the correct product. I paid les than $500 for all the materials to recore the deck of my 36 ft wellcraft. I would also cover the transom witha layer of glass matt. You will probably need two to thre gallons for the entire deck and transom. i recomend medium hardener.
Thanks, I really do like the style of this wellcraft. The hull itself is in really good shape. You are right on, it was rotten to the core
Cloth mat on the bare transom core in one layer or more? I will need to be some epoxy. I was planning on using polyester for the layup on stringers, and floor. It seems the choice between epoxy and poly is somewhat a matter of personal taste.
What I do read is that epoxy is a much better bonder/glue than poly so I will take the advice and wait on some epoxy before doing the transom.
Started on the transom today. I decided to do a build up of the transom area before trying to do the glueup. I put 4 layers of 1808 on the transom. This was my first time of doing any fiberglass work and must say, it went very well. When i return from work on Friday, I will check the specs and trueness of the transom and get on with the transom glueup.
I know this may be old hat to most of you but thought I would pass on a tool that a I made to help check the trueness of the transom thickness.
It works great. I have made some other tools over the years for different tasks. This is one that is very easy to make and use.
Glad you got the pics worked out. Did you measure the original thickness of the transom. You will want that to be the same going back in. Hopefully Opps and a couple of the other experts here will be along to point you in the right direction on things.
Not sure cedar would be as good as going with something like Marine Ply. If its incapsulated correctly it will more than likely last you 20 years though. The plywood is much stronger, but it will all be bonded with glass so..... Good luck with the rebuild.
Thanks Chris, that is what the caliper is for. I did measure it for thickness and trueness. That is why I did the build up. I am in from work for a couple of days so will get back on the truing of transom. Hope I can get it glued in tomorrow.
Epoxy - Polyester resin question. I glued in the transom today using a thickened epoxy. I did not get the epoxy quite thick enough and quite a bit of it squeezed out. I have ground most of it off the wood but have a question about the compatibility of the two resins. I understand that polyester does not bond well to epoxy. How well does the epoxy need to be ground away before I can do the fiberglass overlay. I have included some pictures to better explain my question.
You can see the small fillet of epoxy. Can I add additional Thickened poly resin to make the fillet before doing the glassing?
You can see where I have ground the resin off the wood and for the most part, off the fiberglass. Is this good enough?
In this photo, you can see the resin that has run down under the bottom. Does all of that need to be ground out or can I fillet that also, before I do the glass overlay?
Maybe oops or someone else in the expert arena can give me some help on this.