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  1. #1
    Cadet
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    Default Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    Hello,

    New here for posting but have read on and off for awhile.

    I have an 83 22.5 Sea Ray Express Crusier and last fall when I got back to the marina I no longer had a swim platform. As a new boater, I never understood why I should climb on the front of the boat to throw the anchor out when it was so much easier just to toss it out the back and face the other way. After anchoring awhile with 20 MPH winds, I finally was able to understand the logic firsthand.

    Anyway, over the winter I acquired another swim platform but it is wood instead of fiberglass. After reading the forums, I noticed there are many different ways to bring said platform back to an acceptable state.

    I decided that I would like to use Sikkens, but am wondering about the preparation process. I started sanding it and have been able to make most of the gray go away on the parts I am working on.

    Do I still need to you some sort of cleaner on it after the sanding? I started with 60 grit paper and will finish with probably 100 something. The parts I did are already quite smooth with the 60.

    Any opinions based on the pictures below as whether I need to use any kind of cleaner as well?

    Thanks for any help,

    Dan

    Whole platform (I worked on the right side)



    Closer view of the sanded side



    Closer view of how I received it


  2. #2
    Supreme Mariner oops!'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    hi....welcome to iboats....

    no cleaner......just sand.......and sand.....and sand......did i mention that you have to sand it?
    The Hull Extension Thread
    great info on all aspects on boat building with detailed information.

    http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/hull-extension-progress-pics-234392.html

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend SpinnerBait_Nut LESTER WRIGHT July 31, 1953 - Nov 26, 2008 RIP

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend Tashasdaddy Robert (bob) Griffis. October 27, 1948
    November 29 2010 RIP

  3. #3
    Cadet
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    Thanks,

    Do I have to make all of the gray go away or just most of it for the Sikkens to take correctly? Also, is there a better way to go for the water facing side (which will not see sun but most likely will tend to be wet more often). I just want to do this right the first time.

    Thanks,

    Dan

  4. #4
    Supreme Mariner Woodonglass's Avatar
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    One of our iBoats guys posted this on youtube. Might be helpfule for you.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqiXZrs5hvM

  5. #5
    Cadet
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    Thanks Woodonglass,

    Good Video!

    Dan

  6. #6
    Petty Officer 2nd Class
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    I don't know if this applies to sikkens or not, but I think you're supposed to thin the first one or two coats about 50% so it soaks in deep. Also if that's teak, I think you're supposed to use mineral spirits or something to degrease teak before you apply the coats... Like everyone said, sand sand and more sand. I'm currently working on mine... Already done it twice... No fun...

  7. #7
    Senior Chief Petty Officer
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    Dec 2009
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    Indiana
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    Welcome!

    I will chime in here since I have a near replica of your platform that I'm currently finishing. (I'll post pic's soon)
    Here is how I restored my platform. I used a 3" belt sander with 60 grit, then 100, then 120. Smooth as a baby's bottom. Then blasted it with 120 psi of air from my compressor for dust removal. (Make sure you use a water separator if you do this.) Then I let it bake in direct sunlight for a few hours to make sure it was nice and dry. Next step was to soak it with a quart of linseed oil. And I mean soaked it! Let it dry in the sun for a few days. Then used a palm sander with 220 grit to take off the sheen that the linseed oil left on the surface. Now I'm varnishing the daylights out of it with Rust-oleum #94 oil based spar urethane. I'm letting several days pass between coats. I want it to have that glossy, always wet look. The color looks like mahogany. Teak is where it's at! Makes the boat appear much more luxurious than a slab of fiberglass hanging off the transom.

  8. #8
    Petty Officer 2nd Class
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    Westville ,NJ
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    When I do teak refinishing I use "Snappy Teak".It is a 2 part product that after using looks like you sanded it for hours.It will definately get the gray out.After that you can use Sikkens Cetol for a good looking finish that will last a long time.If you want a glossy finish, it will probably be very slippery when it's wet though.

  9. #9
    Petty Officer 2nd Class geneseo1911's Avatar
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    I dunno about you guys, but I like my swim deck a little rough. It is slippery enough when it is wet, I can't imagine having it sanded smooth and varnished like an old wood boat. I just give mine a good rub down with teak oil a couple times a year. Maintains the color without making it slippery. It was grey & ugly when I bought the boat, but a couple coats of oil made it look gorgeous. The whole point of using teak is that the water won't rot it, so it doesn't need to be completely sealed. I guess it's just another looks vs functionality question. We are in the water nearly as much as we are in the boat, so the swim deck is one of the most critical parts.

  10. #10
    Vice Admiral Yacht Dr.'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    Quote Originally Posted by pole position View Post
    When I do teak refinishing I use "Snappy Teak".It is a 2 part product that after using looks like you sanded it for hours.It will definately get the gray out.After that you can use Sikkens Cetol for a good looking finish that will last a long time.If you want a glossy finish, it will probably be very slippery when it's wet though.
    Yea..that acid will burn through the pulp of the teak .. be very careful using that stuff..

    All you need is 80 grit to get most of the gray out.

    Wipe with acetone and apply your Cetol .. remember there are different kinds of Sikkins out there.. you have to apply coatings directed by Cetol.

    Shoot me a PM if you like .. Im VERY near you mate.. I could drop by and give you some advice if want. I only expect a beer or 3 ..

    YD.
    Iboats Helper

  11. #11
    Cadet
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    Default Re: Redoing swim platform (and other teak)

    Thanks for all the info guys. It looks like I am on the right track. Yacht Dr. a PM is forthcoming as there is always plenty of beer (my wife's) as I like Bacardi.

    Thanks,

    Dan

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