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  1. #1
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    hello all

    Just curious of those of you who have replaced your stringers and your decks what materials you used as well as associated costs and and also what size boat

    Im not looking for an explanation as how you did your project. just what you used whether it be wood with either epoxy or poly resin/ or foam/ or seacast. what kind of cloth did u lay over the stringer and the total cost of the project. also amount of time. include any special tools u needed, or if you altered the standard method for installing any of the above listed.

    and what you would do differently if you had to do it again?
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  2. #2
    Seaman Apprentice
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    I'll let you know soon.

    I am doing my floor in polyester resin (I ordered 5 gals at $125) and exterior plywood, with CSM ($40). I figured 15 yards of fabric, 2 gallons of resin, and 2 sheets of ply for my 18ft boat. Add another $200 for carpet and adhesive and that totals $380 or so for the floor. We will see how that pans out.

    If I need to replace my stringers, I will laminate over rigid foam stringers with epoxy and fabric. Epoxy is more expensive, but you can do a pretty dry layup with epoxy and fabric, while I've noticed that most jobs using CSM the resin is glopped on pretty heavily.

    I figure stringers would cost me:

    $40 for 2lb/c.f. foam
    $20 for hotwire saw (if I needed to make one)
    $220 for biaxial fabric
    $10 in microballoons to fill the foam before application of layup
    $30 for a structural filler like milled glas fibers or flocked cotton
    $60 for a gallon of epoxy
    ---------
    $380 for the stringers

  3. #3
    Supreme Mariner oops!'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Rellik546 View Post
    hello all

    Just curious of those of you who have replaced your stringers and your decks what materials you used as well as associated costs and and also what size boat

    Im not looking for an explanation as how you did your project. just what you used whether it be wood with either epoxy or poly resin/ or foam/ or seacast. what kind of cloth did u lay over the stringer and the total cost of the project. also amount of time. include any special tools u needed, or if you altered the standard method for installing any of the above listed.

    and what you would do differently if you had to do it again?
    lol....

    welcome to the wonderful world of the "dry dock"
    the questions you asked take more than a book or two to answer.
    the best bet is to read ...read...read.
    start in the completed projects forum....(i dont care what kind of boat you have, most are all built the same way...)
    also for all detailes about everything......read the thread in my link....it is the most comphrensive thread on the site and has every answer you need.

    after a little reading....you can decide what is best for your situation and or boat and budget.

    count on 100 hours for the stringer replacement and 80 for the deck for a first timer.

    cost.....2k. then go up from thare....if you use epoxy.....double it.

    good luck....take pics....and post here

    cheers
    oops
    The Hull Extension Thread
    great info on all aspects on boat building with detailed information.

    http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/hull-extension-progress-pics-234392.html

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend SpinnerBait_Nut LESTER WRIGHT July 31, 1953 - Nov 26, 2008 RIP

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend Tashasdaddy Robert (bob) Griffis. October 27, 1948
    November 29 2010 RIP

  4. #4
    Moderator Bob_VT's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    Very interesting...... I was just having a similar discussion with some iboater's by phone about costs.

    There are people here who do this as a profession and their customer's demand the job be done the right way. Then there are people who just want to get on the water and their wallet will not support their dreams. We have the entire spectrum here.

    I will not point to any specific subject or area but there are many varied costs.

    Item by item you can feel free to ask opinions......... I will tell you that stainless steel hardware will be your friend Nothing in rebuilding is cheap when you DIY except the labor!!

    oops! Wow what a great term for the restoration section "dry dock"

    Some people would never dream of using anything but marine plywood however, there are other accepted types of wood/products.

    I do know poly resin is cheaper then epoxy and if you have a regular fiberglass boat, yes it is the cheaper method.
    This is a great link to boat specifications http://boatspecs.iboats.com/
    Please, shop iboats first!!


  5. #5
    Vice Admiral Yacht Dr.'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Rellik546 View Post
    hello all

    Just curious of those of you who have replaced your stringers and your decks what materials you used as well as associated costs and and also what size boat

    Im not looking for an explanation as how you did your project. just what you used whether it be wood with either epoxy or poly resin/ or foam/ or seacast. what kind of cloth did u lay over the stringer and the total cost of the project. also amount of time. include any special tools u needed, or if you altered the standard method for installing any of the above listed.

    and what you would do differently if you had to do it again?
    Did you have a particular project in mind ?

    1.5 oz mat
    1708 and or woving roving
    Polyester
    MG ply
    Cabosil

    Special tools .. made a lot of those . Basic grinders/cuttoffs/air tools ( Biggest one is a full face resporator ).

    What I would do differently ? Learn from every minute and adapt tools/product knowledge .. and get paid more .

    YD.
    Iboats Helper

  6. #6
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    Well I have a 1988 wellcraft. At first like many people it started with a a couple small soft spots. I pulled the carpet and the floor today, I took many pictures. Currently on my iPhone now tho. I'll post later. My deck was aweful, is it bad if u can remove the entire deck by hand with help of a pry bar to get my fingers under it? Haha. Anyways. This boat is gonna get lots of use, wakeboard tower and at 6 to 8 people all the time.

    None of the stringers are glassed in. There is a bunch of pour foam/expand foam that I'm going to remove to furth check the stringers. In all honesty. I'm just going to replace them anyways. I want the hull/stringers/deck to be strong. I'm talking a full boat ripping through waves with tubers. Without worrying I'm gonna rupture the hull. (I mean this with in reason. Normally I slingshot the tube into the oncoming wave and miss hitting it with the boat) nonetheless I want it stong. The stringers are seperate pieces. Only 2 run the length of the boat but separate strings run the bilge area that are a bit wider. I'll attach pics


    I'm willing to spend a 1,000 to do the deck and stringers. What materials would u use? And what would it cost? I'll try to attach pics asap. And I'm only looking for ballpark prices/what would be the best strength for the money.


    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  7. #7
    Supreme Mariner oops!'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    you didnt say what size the boat was...but looking at your avatar its about 18 feet.

    a grand is really on the cheap side of it....it can be done....but buying supplies is where it will make or break the deal....but seriously...count on 2k.

    poly resin....250 10 gals
    acetone 70 bux 5 gals
    mekp and cabosil ect....60
    glass 150-300
    wood...300
    foam 250
    carpet...200.
    glue...50
    tools and grinding discs. 100
    safety stuff....100.

    that is the minimum.
    you may have some tools.....but the discs ...paint rollers, resin rollers....mixing buckets,,,,it all adds up.

    buy the way....hows the transom....if the strings are rot...it may have got the transom.

    read the completed projects forum skanky beast and red furys thread.
    for details...check out the thread on my sig.....it has everything you want to know...

    we are with ya....its a lot of work....but a lot of fun.
    imho...its worth it

    cheers
    oops
    The Hull Extension Thread
    great info on all aspects on boat building with detailed information.

    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=234392

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend SpinnerBait_Nut LESTER WRIGHT July 31, 1953 - Nov 26, 2008 RIP

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend Tashasdaddy Robert (bob) Griffis. October 27, 1948
    November 29 2010 RIP

  8. #8
    Supreme Mariner oops!'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    oh .....by the way....the clamp holding your alternator in place....is a break down waiting to happen
    The Hull Extension Thread
    great info on all aspects on boat building with detailed information.

    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=234392

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend SpinnerBait_Nut LESTER WRIGHT July 31, 1953 - Nov 26, 2008 RIP

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend Tashasdaddy Robert (bob) Griffis. October 27, 1948
    November 29 2010 RIP

  9. #9
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    Thanks oops. i already ordered the new alternator bracket....but that custom bracket has a special look that only a DIYer that owned it before me can appreciate. haha.

    The boat is a 17' with two full length stringers that stagger/ they are technically seperate but they are mounted together. if you see the pic by the motor u can see where the one that runs to the bow ends, and the one from the beginning of the motor bulkhead begins and ends at transom. then there are 2 side stringers that run to the front of the consoles. however the stringers are only 1" think and they are not glassed, in the pictures they look wider, but its as if someone mounted would to the side of them, as they are only 2x2s. is the foam from the factory? or has someone else replaced the floor/ tried to cover up the fact the floor was rotted so they could sell it?

    i bought the boat thinking i was going to need to replace the floor/stringers/transom.

    thanks for the estimate... im really looking for strength. different threads glass their stingers differently.

    I know very little about fiberglassing but am willing to tackle it. im aware that epoxy is stronger and bonds better to wood. im also aware that marine ply wood has no voids and uses an outdoor rated adhesive. most people use it for there transoms and get away with using CDX or outdoor rated play laminated 2 think as their stingers.

    where my stringers are only 1" thick. should i just get a few sheets of 1/2" ply then bond 2 pieces together for each stringer, and then use the remaining 1/2" as my deck as that was what the original deck was.

    i was thinking of using cloth, not mat or cgm. as it is the strongest and using 3 layers all 2" wider on each side to bond to the hull. after tabbing the stringer in place of coarse. i want to use all epoxy resin for this step to ensure it is strong and never have to replace it for as long as i own it


    is it safe to get away with using cdx? or outdoor ply with poly resin to seal it with some mat then the last layer cloth?

    i only plan on removing one stringer at a time, as the boat sits on a bunk trailer and i dont want the hull to sag. i believe im going to remove that cap and replace the entire boats deck and stringers even tho everything under the bow cap looks good.
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  10. #10
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    still looking to see what other people did for their stingers/deck. any creative or alternative ideas and prices.

    im thinking about putting snap in carpet in mine, if any carpet at all
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  11. #11
    Lieutenant Commander Cadwelder's Avatar
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    Wink Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    Quote Originally Posted by oops! View Post
    oh .....by the way....the clamp holding your alternator in place....is a break down waiting to happen
    Just make sure it's a geniune Merc, marine grade clamp.....
    A good brand of engine is one that runs

  12. #12
    Lieutenant Commander Cadwelder's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    And the $2K is a much closer cost estimate than $1K.
    A good brand of engine is one that runs

  13. #13
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    i am looking at epoxy resins and noticed there is a huge price difference...ive heard good things about west marine and aeromarine but aeromarine i can get much cheaper.

    What are the best brands, i know brands can really just boil down to paying for a name. but at the same time id imagine that some are truley better than others. or diluted down with thinners.
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  14. #14
    Supreme Mariner oops!'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    take a really good look at using epoxy....you only have a 17 footer.....not a 35 scarab with triple 300 horse mercs.

    ploy is far stronger than you will ever need
    The Hull Extension Thread
    great info on all aspects on boat building with detailed information.

    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=234392

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend SpinnerBait_Nut LESTER WRIGHT July 31, 1953 - Nov 26, 2008 RIP

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend Tashasdaddy Robert (bob) Griffis. October 27, 1948
    November 29 2010 RIP

  15. #15
    Petty Officer 1st Class Psiclown's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Rellik546 View Post
    still looking to see what other people did for their stingers/deck. any creative or alternative ideas and prices.

    im thinking about putting snap in carpet in mine, if any carpet at all
    Check out Mick's stringer replacement. Awesome. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....light=mick%27s

  16. #16
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    Quote Originally Posted by oops! View Post
    take a really good look at using epoxy....you only have a 17 footer.....not a 35 scarab with triple 300 horse mercs.
    where can i get one of those well if you insist that poly will hold up to my 17 foot at full capacity, tubing and wakeboarding then ill save a few hundred dollars
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  17. #17
    Supreme Mariner oops!'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    it will hold ....and be more than you ever need for stregnth....
    the biggest reason for poly failure is because of bad prep, or super bad application, or improperly mixed.

    otherwize the stuff is as strong as steel
    The Hull Extension Thread
    great info on all aspects on boat building with detailed information.

    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=234392

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend SpinnerBait_Nut LESTER WRIGHT July 31, 1953 - Nov 26, 2008 RIP

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend Tashasdaddy Robert (bob) Griffis. October 27, 1948
    November 29 2010 RIP

  18. #18
    Lieutenant Commander proshadetree's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    I used poly on my bayliner and beat the thing unmercifully. No cracks no leaks. Like opps said its the bomb. Your boat was originally made from it anyways.

  19. #19
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    so when laying the stringers and glassing in the new transom, should i use biax? or 1708? or mat. again going for strength might as well do it right. i heard mat is messy and absorbs much more resin (possibly good for strength, possibly a waste of resin?) i know that they use biax in snowboards so that stuff must be pretty strong. i did a good search and found an actually fiberglass supply store about 30 min away. (jackpot) all there stuff is fresh(apparently resin has a shelf life) and they have any kind of mat i want. its sweet because now i wont have to pay shipping costs, and the guy has really good prices. he told me he goes through about 50 gal of resin every couple of days. all the local marinas get there supplies from him
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  20. #20
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    oh also i got into the boat again today and did the final drill test. conclusion all wood in boat is junk. so its all gettin ripped out. started to remove rub rail, and drilling out rivets. my stringers arent 1 piece instead they end at 2 separate cross braces. the cross braces cross the entire hull in 1 piece, and the stringer is in pieces between them, and then whole to the bow, and to the transom
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  21. #21
    Commander rickryder's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    Them cross braces would be your bulk heads. Nice project and a great looking boat!

  22. #22
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    thanks rickryder: nice four winns my dads friend had one of those growing up. yours is beauitufl. use to tube behind it with the 350. big WAKE

    oops thanks again. im sure your busy helping many nubes this is my first boat, well technically second. im only 23yr coming out of Massachusetts in the middle of winter up here. i think u have posted on my thread before but im gonna post it again... and perhaps you and some other vets can lend a hand...my girlfriend is starting to complain about the amount of time i spend sifting through the forums.

    http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/restoration-1988-wellcraft-170-classic-3-0l-mercruiser-alpha-1-gen-1-a-458416.html
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  23. #23
    Supreme Mariner oops!'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    and your girlfriend will never stop....this is addicting....im at work...glassing in sub zero temps....and im on the forum repling to this....lol

    ok....csm is the workhorse of the fiberglass industry.

    the proper way (imho) to do a stringer is....tab in all the way with csm....
    small tab with 1708....then full wrap of 1708.
    (i dont lay 1708 against 1708...i allways put matt between...but you can do 1708 matt side against the outer layer of 1708)

    in my thread it explanes why. ,,,,but basically...resin is brittle....mat soaks up the resin and makes it strong ....its short strands have super bonding ability with what ever substraight you put it against.

    the matt in the 1708 is thin......and the top layer of the outer(fabric side) is coarse....so there will be a weak resin rich (brittle) layer between the two layers.
    for stregnt you can do 2 full wraps of 1708......more is over kill and extra weight.

    ok....gotta get back to glassing now...its -5 c...lol
    The Hull Extension Thread
    great info on all aspects on boat building with detailed information.

    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=234392

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend SpinnerBait_Nut LESTER WRIGHT July 31, 1953 - Nov 26, 2008 RIP

    IN MEMORY OF Our friend Tashasdaddy Robert (bob) Griffis. October 27, 1948
    November 29 2010 RIP

  24. #24
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    first, what do you mean small tab with 1708? like 1708 tape? after they are tabbed with csm?

    i also found a marine fiberglass supply store within 30 min of me.
    They sell System Three General Purpose Epoxy Resin for $487 for the 7.5 gallon kit
    I know ill need more but it beats any online price i can find before shipping.
    http://www.mertons.com/Epoxy/epoxy_r...tem_three.html

    they also sell 50" 24oz nonwoven double bias stitch mat (1708) i believe for $8.00 a yrd
    http://www.mertons.com/Reinforcement...le_stitch.html

    ive thoroughly inspected all the glass supporting the stringers(about half way up each stringer) the class has no voids, rips, tears, cracks, bubbles, or brittle. can i just remove the old stringer, sand out the old glass. use some PL adhesive or ooops peanutbutter to seat the stringer, and coat the sides of the glass and wood to bond them?. then wrap the entire stringer to the hull using a couple layers of 1708/then matt/ 1708?

    or should i grind out the glass? ill take pictures... im not trying to save work or be lazy. the glass is in good condition, and i really did inspect it well. i obviously dont have a trained eye however. so ill put some pics tonight
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

  25. #25
    Petty Officer 1st Class Rellik546's Avatar
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    Default Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

    after calling and talking to the guy at the store. he recommends that i cut out the remaining glass, then if my strake is big enough, try to use a 2x6 as they are already rounded on the edge, and trying to round plywood leaves a messy edge) he recommended buying from a lumber yard that keeps there lumber inside but not HD or lowes.

    i think im going to use epoxy resin with 17.oz double bias cloth he said wrapping it twice will be way more than enough strength and bond then ill ever need. and that this cloth wets out better with epoxy than the stitch mat, and where epoxy is stronger, there is no real need for the mat. he also said i could use this same mat to do the transom. and that i can just buy thixothopic powder(silica) to use to seat the stringer and use a spoon or pvc pipe to fillet where it meets the floor.

    the 24 oz unwoven double bias stitch mat is more for use with poly resin
    1988 Wellcraft 170 classic
    1985 140 3.0L mercruiser
    alpha 1 gen 1
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php? I NEED HELP!!! any is better than none

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