I hope I'm in right area now. I have a metalflake paint job, was going to re-paint until yesterday, when I wet-sanded a small portion of boat and the silver flakes were shining through! Want to know the exact protocol for wet-sanding, clear coating, and the sequential steps that are involved. Dont want to know about gimmick products, YES - I love the labor!
ok here is what needs to be done. first you need to wet sand entire boat. then get online and goto www.uscomposites.com. Goto the polyester resins section look for the clear gelcoat. you do not want to use a clear coat, so to say as automotive paints seen to stir up all kind of arguements on this forum. you need to use gelcoat. that is what was orignally used with the boat. A gelcoat is no more than a standard polyester resin like fiberglass resin but has uv inhibitors and is pigmented. you want the Clear Metalflake Gelcoat. get about 3 to 4 gallons at 31.00 bucks a gallon. it is woth it to have too much, one quart of the Surfacing Wax (Mod-C). now also get a gallon of the PVA # 10 Moldrelease. after the gelcoat is shot it will remain tacky on the surface, just put the mold release in a standard paint gun and lightly mist the entire surface you just shot with gelcoat.. this will case the gelcoat to cure hard and not tacky. not you will want to shoot this all in one time. in otherwords not 3 coats over 3 days. otherwise you will need to sand the gelcoat between coats. shoot the gelcoats in about 45 min intervils. on the first 2 coats just use the proper Catalyst that is included with the gelcoat. and on the 3rd coat add in the surface wax. (makes it easier to wet sand and buff to a glourious shine. after the 3rd coat is shot let sit about 1 hour and shoot on the moldrelease. let sit on overnight and wash off in the morning and wet sand entire boat and buff. I know people on this site use clear coats but I assure you gelcoat is easier to apply and will last years past the clear coat. plus it will not scratch up like clear coat will. if you need any detailed how tos let me know. I seem to be shooting gelcoat on a weekly basis now a days. If you want to see some pics of center console bay boats looks like when done with gelcoat, instead of just rubberized paints or plastic paints let me know thats and good luck.
Thank you for the response. OK, on the sides, where I have wet sanded some small spots, the boat looks great. Do I need to gel-coat over that? That is really not my concern, it is the top that needs to be addressed. The black has turned to grey, and there are barely any metalflakes showing anymore. Even when I wet sanded.....nothing, same appearance as to what it was. If I wet-sand, and gelcoat, black will come back? Or, do I have to paint a layer of black on, and then gelcoat? When and where do I add metalflakes. Thanks again, just want to make sure of every step before I jump into this.
First the black may never come back, it has been damaged by the uv rays from the sun too bad so you will either have to live with the grey or paint over it. then the metal flakes need to be added in the first coat of gelcoating. if you are to add a metal flake you should shoot a coat of gelcoat thin, and then add the metal flake. then do the other 3 coats on top. if you ask the guys at uscomposites they are very helpful. and I always get a few sheets of 1\4" plywood and play with it, so i can see what type of pattern i am going to have. nothing worse than having a job turn out less than your expectations. good luck and i hope all fairs well.
Definetly not going to live with grey. If the deck of boat is still black when it rains, is there still gelcoat to bring back to life? How do I do this? On the sides of top, and sides where I am wet sanding, do I need to clear over that? What should I clean boat with before I begin wet sanding? Reminder: On sides of top, and sides - I have wet sanded, and color has come back. On deck, I wet sanded, and it remained the same greyish color. Do I need to add something to a clear coat to bring back the black in paint?
Well, I guess noboby else has used this. Went out and spent almost 100 bucks on 3M products. Worked on a 3x3 portion for a couple of hours. Cleaned surface, wet-sanded (400, 600, 1000), 3M superduty rubbing compound, Finesse-it, and liquid wax. I difference, but not an eye-opener. If boat looks good wet, does that mean that my existing gel-coat still has something left in it? Can i just wet-sand (what grit?) and then clear coat?
play2as i mentioned in the other thread, if your going thru the trouble of prepping gel for new clear it is best to just put a fresh base of black under it. black gel is really a nightmare and difficult to restore usually. yes , it may look good wet and may be a vast improvement with clear over it, but you still have problematic black underneath. laying a fresh black base before clearing is not much additional work at that point.paint will be at least slightly less labor intensive but far, far less durable in the scratch/chip department. gel can be a far more labor intensive process than paint in many cases, depending on the job. tho paint will tend to be less maintenence orientated in the shine department down the road usually. in other words, if you dont stay on top of waxing that fresh gel, the same will happen all over again. whereas paint will have a tendency to retain its shine better..and hey, at least you have lots of buffing materials for future projects. good pads, finesse, etc are always good to have around..
So....here is what I think I should do according to others' responses. Please interject any responses that can help me with my progressions from step to step:1) Clean surface with ????2) Wet sand, depending on surface - 400, 600, 10003) Rinse and dry off surface eliminating any junk4) On top, apply a black base (what type of paint/gel???????????)5) Wet Sand painted surface?? (how many coats)6) Thin layer of clear gel/coat??7) Add metalflakes while still tacky.8) Lay on two more layers of gel/clear coat within 45 minutes of each other.9) When dry, wet sand surface.10) Finito, enjoy my shiny boat??
ok, degrease boat with a strong soap, Spray 9 works well. or you can damp towel/ dry towel with denatured alcohol.wetsand with 320 to 400. rinse and blow out cracks/gaps, etc. damp towel/ dry towel with denatured on paper towels. mask, etc. apply black base. gel or paint is a huge decision and the difference can be substantial. you'll have to decide which you want to choose. i gave you the advantages and disadvantages of each in a prior post. procedures vary slightly, when you decide, your procedures can be adjusted slightly.if you go gel, wetsand the black with 600... next is clear with flake. as i said, its best to put it in the clear and spray it. but yes, you can use alternative methods to apply it to that initial clear. i've seen guys use flour sifters from a good height above, but i still prefer spraying it, the results are far superior and consistant..let set up and apply 2 to 4 coats straight clear on top. only put wax in your last coats of gel..wetsand with 600, then 1000, then buff. """OR""" you can go for the metal bar compound method.
Johnnybigrigger: Ryoken is refering to gel coat aplication!Ryoken, Have you ever used mothers metal polish on Paint or gel coat. Its unbeleiveable how well it works on urethanes! You can buy it in gallons from the manufacturer! It has a very high amout of amonia and I beleive that makes it work so well, Its a well kept secret. Well, not any more. I actually thin it with a little finesit, as it is a little thick. Then finish up with finesit!
actually i have Lube.. years ago we used to use it in the detailing gig on hammered enamel jobs, and come to think of it, it did work quite well. thanks for the reminder, i had forgotten all about that stuff!Play2 - when you decide on paint or gel, let us know and we can give you a more specifac step by step...