Interlux Perfection, Final Paint

[epresutti]

Folks,There are a few sags and drips, nothing a little wet sanding won't fix, the final coats were sprayed -My neighbor is a boat builder-, note the makeshift spray booth, only 1 bug got in Whole Project Thanks everyone for all your help and support. Now it is time to flip it back over, finish painting the inside, fit it out, etc.Peace.Ed.

[Bond-o]

That's 1 Fine Vessel you're building Ed,.........I Just Know,...... She's going to bring you Many Fine Dreams...........

[Boomyal]

One Bug???? In Florida. Surely you jest Ed. Looks real good. Let's get 'er flipped and loaded up.

[woody20]

Very nice, continue with more pictures.

[epresutti]

Thanks guys,Boomyal, just went out to check, looks like the "no-see-ums" have been having a little picnic, I will have to get them out tomorrow. For those of you who don't know, these are little itty bitty biting black gnats (or maybe flies) that you can't see until they bite you, worse than a mesquito! They even fit between the weave on a screen! Learned about them when I moved to Florida, I thought they were kidding!Thanks again guys, I really appreciate all of the help, maybe I can pass on what I have learned. I guess that is the whole point isn't it.Peace.Ed.

[Boomyal]

Ed, just got finished doing my very first cut and polish on my son's Pontiac. I was always afraid to do that because of the much ballyhooed fear of 'burning' the paint.Maybe I can give you a few pointers on polishing! It was kind of fun and satisfying.

[bigbad 4cyl x2]

I thaught perfection was for above the waterline.

[epresutti]

Boomyal,That would be great! My friend has cautioned me (alot) about not going crazy and not just burning, but sanding away the paint. He is saying first step wet sand any drips and sags to knock off the edges.Bigbad...Yes it is, I e-mailed the Interlux guys, since my boat will be trailered and/or on davits it won't be a problem. They even suggested it. What they do say is you should not leave it immersed in water more than 3 or 4 days (although that seems to be more of a CYA thing according to the people I have spoken with). I believe most of the below the waterline concerns are "sea stinkies", you know barnicles, algea, etc. They will grow on the hull, unless you have a paint that with either ablade or has anti-microbial. The above is my understanding.Peace.Ed.

[Boomyal]

Originally posted by Ed from Palm Harbor: Boomyal,That would be great! My friend has cautioned me (alot) about not going crazy and not just burning, but sanding away the paint. He is saying first step wet sand any drips and sags to knock off the edges.

You can actually buy a neat little run shaver. They have them at the local auto paint supply shop. They cost about 7$ and you can quickly knock the high sides off the drips and runs. It's like a miniature block plane with a micro dial on it for depth of cut. If you don't get one of those you can just start out as described next.Next I would use a 1 1/2 x 2 1/2" hard rubber sanding block with 600 grit wet and dry paper to finish leveling up the run. Get a little plastic tub, use warm water with a squirt of dishsoap in it.Next I would use 1200 grit wet and dry on a 3 1/2 x 2" hard rubber block and over sand the area you just worked. I would also start out with the 1200 on the entombed no-seeums. Depending on how mirror like you want to make it you could then make a few passes with 1500 grit on the same larger block.If you don't have one, I'd sure invest in one of these:polisher I would throw away the wool polishing pad that comes with it and go to that auto paint supply store and buy a velcro wool polishing pad.(about 11$) It will fit nicely on the velcro base pad that comes with the polisher.Also buy a bottle of 3M Perfect-it II rubbing compound. It is not as agressive as the common 3M superduty rubbing compound. Also buy a fresh roll of 1" masking tape. Do not waste your money on the blue stuff.Depending how much effort you want to expend, you can either just polish out your sanded runs and boo boo's as well as polishing the rest of the hull or you could lightly color sand the whole hull with the 1500 paper then hit it with the polisher. I would use the masking tape over any edges. Once you polish the areas around the taped edges you can remove the tape and make light controlled passes up to the edge itself.Apply your compound to the surface, smear it around your 2 ft sq working area with the wool pad, set your HF Polisher dial on 1 and go to town. I would start off on good flat surfaces to get used to controlling the polisher. Then when you get into the tighter areas you will know how to roll the pad up on it's outer edged to make passes in the tighter areas.I was scared to death to use one of these things but after this weekend I'll be polishing everything I've got.If you want to finish it right, buy a bottle of Meguires (or equiv) dual action finish polish/glaze to finish it off. For the glaze applicator, buy the 3m egg crate/knobby foam pad. Do not get the flat yellow Meguires pad.The finish polish will also work great if you want to do any of your cars that have pretty decent paint with a little aggrevating deterioration that won't come clean with a typical hand wax job.Oh, and be sure to follow the Mfgr's instructions on cure time before you go grinding away.

[epresutti]

Boomyal,Thanks much, I am going on a quest for said items right now. Manufacturers instructions say don't wait more than 48hrs. Min 24hrs that will be high noon today.I very much appreciate your comments, I may be polishing my lawn mower, shed, etc.. Peace.Ed.

[bigbad 4cyl x2]

No harm will occur to freshly applied STERLING topcoat if it is waxed, but assure that the material is not a combination polish/wax for the former contains abrasive material, though of extremely fine character. Any buffing or abrasion on the fresh coating through the use of a combination wax/polish will introduce micro-scratches and this can cause premature deterioration. The surface area is increased by the action of abrasive, allowing the scratched texture to become a better harbor for air contaminants, liquids, salt crystals, and other materials which attract or hold moisture and which contribute to the presence of an alkaline or acidic environment. Additionally, the magnitude of solar radiation is increased proportionate to the increase in surface area. These factors can contribute to premature loss of gloss and color fading. Within the first few years, therefore, if waxing is desired, do not use a combination polish/wax. Assure that it contains no ingredients which would scratch the surface. Later in the coatings service life, as gloss is significantly diminished, it can, contrastingly, be beautifully restored with a combination polish/wax or a polish by itself followed by waxing. Such products as 3M's Finesse-It II (Product #05928) are excellent at this stage. This product will leave minimal, if any, swirl marks and will cause the least damage to the existing film. The oxidized surface will be quickly removed and it is then appropriate for the application of wax or normal cleaning care.