Hi guys about ready to start painting the deck which will consist of painting over gelcoat and paint. Most of the deck is gelcoat but there is a 4" wide strip of paint above the rub rail.
I just need to finish repairing a few minor cracks and then will start the painting prep, here are the steps I have came up with but open to suggestions. (Main thing is I am doing my best to follow the procedure outlined for Interlux Brightside paint).
1.) Will use warm soap and water and a stiff srcub brush to thourghly clean the boat. Will rinse with water and let it dry completely.
2.) Will wipe a small area with a clean rag that has been wetted down with Interlux Solvent Wash 202. While surface is still wet, will wipe with a clean, dry rag. Will do this for the complete area to be painted.
3.) Will sand down with 220-320 grade (grit) paper and clean up sanding residue with Solvent Wash 202 with same method as above.
4.) Will apply Interlux Pre Kote Primer and let dry.
5.) Will sand down with 220-320 grade (grit) paper and clean up sanding residue with a rag dampened with Interlux Brushing Liquid 333.
6.) Will apply Interlux Brightside White paint using the roller and brush/tip method, will be two of us painting so one will brush and the other will tip never letting the leading edge dry. I plan on putting two coats down so will sand in between and clean up with Interlux Brushing Liguid 333 before starting a new coat.
7.) Will tape of sections I want to be painted with Black Brightside paint. Before applying this trim coat will lightly sand area taped off and clean up with Brushing Liguid 333. I am hoping one coat will work for the black but if need be might go two coats.
As well I plan on painting either early morning before the hot weather and humidity comes or late evening, as well I will follow the proper drying times between all coats per those mentioned with painting instructions.
Thinnest nap mohair, solvent resistant closed cell, or marine specific thin nap rollers work best. I prefer badger hair tapered bristle brush (3"). It wont leave bristles in the paint if you get a good one. I have heard of using of the shelf china bristle brushes, but they shed occasionally. The rule for me is buy a high quality brush for tipping only. $30+. Fine tapered bristles work best.
Work quickly when painting and avoid any sort of wind. Even a breeze can mess it up. Dont thin the paint unless you are working in high temps. Since you are using single pack paint, practice a little on a smooth surface and let it dry. It will give you a better idea of how it works. When tipping avoid overworking the paint, a single stroke is best and move on.
A good badger hair brush with tapered bristles works well. They generally cost a little more than most others. Mine was around $30. You can get even more expensive but then I think you are over buying. The biggest pain in the rump is when bristles come out of the brush and in the paint you just tipped. I think my stuff is all Redtree brand if memory serves.
Hey guys...have all the patch work finally done and all the grunt work (aka sanding).
Now here is a question...I never did read the instructions for how to apply the pre-kote only the finish Brightside which is described above. Right now I have sanded the whole boat down with 220 grit paper but after reading the prekote instructions it says for fiberglass to sand with 80 grit, and in between primer coats to use 120 grit, and before I put on the brightside to use 220.
Do you think I shoud re-sand with the 80 grit or just leave the boat alone with 220....another stupid rookie mistake...really wish I woudl haev read the primer instructions first..lol...oh welll...what are your thoughts?
You will be fine with the 220 sanding. I have done it and had no problems after three years now. 120 is good between coats because it cuts quickly. Prekote is a high build primer and it will cure with some strokes in it. When you start sanding it you will see how the rougher grit is a benefit between coats. 220 is good for a final sanding to make a clean smooth surface. The 220 will also cut slower allowing for less sand-through of the primer. You can go straight to 220 when sanding the primer if you feel a single coat is enough for color coverage and surfacing. Prekote and Epoxy Prime-kote are surfacers that close the porosity of the gelcoat. They will help the paint bond and flow, but they are more for surface prep than anything else.
Tip: I run over the primer with 120 first to knock the sheen off the primer and flatten high spots. I then finish sand it with 220. If you are using an orbital quickly run down the surface with 120 just to knock it down a bit then finish with 220. It makes the job go a little faster. If you get a little sand-through dont sweat it, go ahead and paint. If you get allot of sand-through, put on another coat of primer.
Just a touch of grey tint in the second coat of primer will darken it just enough to show low spots really well after sanding. If your picky, like me, then this is a big help for filling low areas.
Thanks Drewpster.....I will prime right over the fiberglass I have sanded with 220.
Good to hear it is still going strong after 3 years....curious if I did decide to rought up the 220 with 80 before starting to prime will this give me longer life for my paint job, as the primer would haev more surface area to attaach to?
Between primer coats and paint will do as you say and knock it down quickly with 120 and finish up with 220.
Love the tinting with gray to see low spots, will do that if need be.