I decided that the Glasspar Tacoma I just bought is a keeper, the transom was redone but only the lower part. Who ever did the floor only replaced the transom part way up, about mid way on the motor. The tie down loops and upper corners were only supported with two small blocks of wood and not connected to the main transom wood.
The biggest concern is that this is a very curved transom, the rear of the boat curves about 4 to 5 inches outward from a straight line. It looks like the original transom was made or 4 layers of 3/8" plywood, most of the original wood is still good, but there's a rotted section down the left rear side, between the corner of the splashwell and the motor. It looks like the aluminum corner trim sort of funnels the water that way, so after the new transom, I'll have to seal that area up as well.
The original transom is made up a many pieces of 3/8" plywood, not just four sheets, they overlap in various sized sections.
Has anyone ever had to do a transom with such a curve?
I considered Seacast, but the inner skin is only a single layer of glass, and I would have to do as much work to form up a temporary inner liner just to make the pour as I would have to do simply making a new wood transom.
Is it acceptable to make the transom out of several vertical strips as they have done?
I think I would use glass inbetween the layers, the original doesn't even look bonded in any way. The marina that did the floor cut away only the outer skin of the lower transom and attached a single new sheet of 3/8" ply across the bottom below the splashwell. The floor repair looks great, but it looks like they never bothered to go any higher to check the transom.
The transom didn't show any signs of flex, but I noticed the rotted wood when I was tightening a few loose screws in the aluminum cap.
I think I will most likely have to cut away even some of the new floor, but I hate to destroy all that nice work. The floor is made of 3/4" thick marine ply and from what I can see through the bilge hole with a bore scope, it looks like they epoxied or sprayed the entire underside as well. The top surface of the floor is finished with a heavy gelcoat and painted with a non skid paint. It looks better than factory. The transom is skinned on the inside with only one layer of woven glass and resin, it's pretty thin. I pulled out most of the soft wood, and the inner skin is like a sheet of paper. I did consider building up the inner skin to make it self supporting and then using the Seacast, but I figured that since the transom is so thin and curved, it would be nearly impossible to get all the rotted wood out. The curve is such that I would have trouble getting the chainsaw in and out without hitting or cutting through either side.
The outer glass is thin too, the outer hull is only 1/8" thick. I will have to add lots of support braces when doing this one.