1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

[jspano]

i've been helped so much and have used the search feature alot.

right now i am trying to be like a carpenter building a staircase, stay 1 step ahead.

i can't find the foam at the big box stores here in florida.
i think i'm looking for 4x8 sheets 2-3 inches wide.. is that correct
all they have is 1/2" with foil and alot or r-value.

i looked at lowes web site and see this

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...909&lpage=none

is this what i need to find

hd had some white styrofoam 4x8' x 2" about 14.00

[bananaboater]

The blue or pink is what you should use, high density and from what I can tell water proof. The Lowes stuff you found is it.

Most box stores will stock a lot of 1/2 inch. Some will have 1 or 2 inch but I cannot imagine any having more thickness than that.

If you really want much thicker you will have to order it on line.

Some folks are going to the closed cell foam floatation noodles for kids in pools. An option and probably cheap now that summer is over.

[jspano]

i might have to look on line or at the pool store
the link for the lowes stuff is not stocked here.(fla.)
i found white styrofoam in big sheets but don't know if it will work

[North Beach]

JS,
The white stuff is expanded polystyrene. It is not what you want to use. If subjected to moisture and heat it will suck the water up like a sponge. the blue or pink is extruded polystyrene and is what I recommend. It runs in thicknesses from 1/2" to 2" and if you can't find it at the box stores try calling a few roofing or insulating contractors.

BTW it's usually in 2' wide peices, not 4'. You're gonna need way more of the 1/2" and just a little of the 2. Go to my sunchief rebuild thread and check it out.

[jspano]

thanks i'll look next week and will check your thread now

[jspano]

here's a pic of my boat

3rd time the motor went

i'm redoing the transom now and removing the floor and foam

i want to do a nice job but low budget(LOL)

i might not do much with the outside

look at the chrome rail at the bow some have the large rail like i do(which i like here in the gulf) and other have a short rail on each side?????

[jspano]

looked at a 14 ft starcraft today to see if we could get out to the flats and fish. after looking at it the owner told me it's considered an antique and only 30.00 to reg. in fla. i thought 1 starcraft project at a time and backed off.

[Azonic]

2 things I really like...

Starcrafts...

and Center Consoles...

I like your boat alot...

post LOTS of pictures

[jonesg]

More pics, a center console is the only tinny I would want.

[Rickairmedic]

J even if Lowes or Homey Desperate dont stock it in your area they can order it in for you . That may be an option for you . They have lots of stuff on their websites that they dont stock in their stores and special order stuff for people everyday.


Rick

[jspano]

might get the transom completed today (weather permited)
will not install it until i get the knee brace welded.
i plan to have the pcs welded back on and a larger pc weld to the orginal


joe
spring hill fl.

[jspano]

i have some work cut out for me

[jspano]

testing photobucket

http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/a...view=slideshow

[jspano]

got the last coat of fiber on transom will wait to sand and apply a coat of resin

winter is tough here got a low of 75 today

[Rickairmedic]

LOL J thats the only thing I might be able to say I miss about that area of Fla " I grew up in Tampa just south of you . I will see if I can get you the Sku numbers for the pinki&blue foam sheets from my local stores so you can order them from yours .



Rick

[jspano]

thanks
just got back from fishing with my son damn bugs got the best of us!

joe

[jspano]

playing with photobucket

this is the boat as it was when i first went to look at it.


http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=af82df3e.pbw

[jspano]

some photos of the begining restore

http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/a...photo/restore/


i feel intimidated alittle when i look at some of the other restores.
this boat was bought as a fishing boat and will stay as one.
i want to make it better than it was when new and hope to do that by better tech and materials.
the boat came with 2 cheap plastic swivel seats it the rear and will probably make a come back as they are very functional.
i hope to make the deck as water proof as poss. by making the water run to the back on top of the deck instead of under it.
i plan to use ROUTER to lower the profile of the plywood at the butt joints to accept some fiberglass ( similar to dry wall sheets) and then resin the whole sheet.
i know you can not seal the wood to the hull as the flexing would crack it, but there are these 2 shelves on the bottom on each side ( i call them kick plates) and they can be sealed to the deck and to the hull and still flex.

any in put????

joe

[jspano]

hopefully with the long weekend i mifgt get some fishing and work on the boat also.
on the transom and splashwell there is a cap, mine is 5 pcs 2 for the curve and 2 smal straight pcs going up and a longer pc atached to the middle pc of splashpan. they were attached to the transom with very thin finishing nails(most were not holding) is there a better way to do this.

joe

[Azonic]

I understand what you said above...

I started in on my boat and wondered why even though I knew...

for around here, this boat would have fished another 2-5 years before anyone did anything to it. And then they would have put down a new piece ontop of the already bad floor. Why? Not sure, but stuff around here just gets used, used, used, abused, used some more, then thrown away...

I wanted more usable for what we do...
No concern for style points for me... I am going function as much as possible...
And I hope to use quality materials the whole way...

I am concerned with my deck as a final finished product too.
I want it to drain, and be protected at all points...
1: Bottom
2: Sides
3: Top
4: all mounting points..

#4 is the hard one for me! Mounting down stuff requires screws/bolts/etc..
and they all penetrate this already expensive well protected deck that will have so much work in it...

How do we do that the right way?

You figure that out, please share...

Good luck with the work, I hope to get some more done myself over the long weekend!

[jspano]

I am concerned with my deck as a final finished product too.
I want it to drain, and be protected at all points...
1: Bottom
2: Sides
3: Top
4: all mounting points..

#4 is the hard one for me! Mounting down stuff requires screws/bolts/etc..
and they all penetrate this already expensive well protected deck that will have so much work in it...

How do we do that the right way?

You figure that out, please share...

Good luck with the work, I hope to get some more done myself over the long weekend!

i plan on doing my deck like i stated above i will post pics as i go.
i too am concerned on hardware. i bought some deck screws that are rated not to rust. i'll use alum rivets and stainless steel nuts and bolts where ever i can. i also plan to use some kind of sealant in any pre-drilled holes ( i will search that product i've seen it before)
(someone should do a post of common and best materials to use on typical restores... like a sticky. you know what ply to use for transom ,floors. resins, sealants, paints, foam. and all the brand names with possitive and neg comments)
on the deck i will fasten first and seal the deck top last

good luck, keep posting, and use the search option.

everyone here is really great and helpfull people.

remember i was the guy who thought "rool and tip paint" meant tipping the boat so the paint would flow LOL
so i probably will win the stupid question award

joe
fla.

[jspano]

got some work done 2 day

[jspano]

[IMG][/IMG]

[ezmobee]

Looking good. You better slow down, you might catch me

[Azonic]

I like that tanks...
Lets hope it is in good usable condition...

Keep it up...