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  1. #1

    Default 14' "TomBoy" restore

    2 weeks ago I bought this 14' TomBoy fishing boat for $400. Of course when I got it home I discovered that under the little cracked area in the deck was rotten wood, saturated foam and about 40 gallons of water. My 1st thought was to take it to the dump but after finding iboats I decided to tackle the project. I have built a plywood canoe before with fiberglass and Raka epoxy so I think that experience should help me some. I will attach pics of the 'TomBoy'. I don't know much about the boat other than it may have been built in Huntsville, Alabama in the 60s & 70s. The owner told me the outboard is a "1956" Evinrude (15hp). So far I have ripped out most of the deck, all of the foam and vacuumed/drained out all the water. This weekend I am going to attempt to:
    1. Remove the rest of the floor and stringers
    2. Remove the transom from the inside
    3. Grind & Sand
    4. I also have an oops in the hull where the circular saw cut it. Don't know if I will get to it this weekend though.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Trapper55; July 30th, 2009 at 11:47 AM. Reason: Add Pictures

  2. #2

    Question Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Questions??
    1. Polyester resin is a lot cheaper than Epoxy. Is the coverage the same as Epoxy or do you have to use more of it? Should I buy 5 gallons of Polyester or would 2 gallons of Epoxy suffice?

    2. Foam: I have seen some projects where construction foam is used instead of the expensive pour and mix foam. Does the construction foam have the same floatation properties? Density?

  3. #3

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Check this thread out, should have everything you want to know about Epoxy or Poly

    http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/let-s-make-fiberglass-information-thread-286013.html

  4. #4

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Here are some better pictures.

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  5. #5

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Last Weekend's Progress. Removed seats, seat pedestals, live well, fire extinguisher & most of the deck. Still haven't decided about the casting deck upfront. Depends on what kinda shape the stringers are in when I start working on them.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Friday's 7/31: Worked on the transom

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Removed the transom end cap by drilling out the rivets.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    It took all day to get the transom out. Used circular saw, reciprocating saw, hammer and chisel, pry bar and 4 1/2" grinder.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Anyone have ideas on how to get the last couple of inches of deck out on the hull sides? I was going to put the new deck on top but I don't think the wood is in as good of shape as I thought. I need to able to cut as close as I can to the side so I can avoid spending 2 days grinding.
    Last edited by Trapper55; August 1st, 2009 at 07:04 PM. Reason: Added more text

  6. #6
    Petty Officer 2nd Class
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    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    To get the last couple inches of floor: I would use the sawzall with a long blade, put several wraps of duct tape on the end of the blade so it won't cut and just flex it up against the hull while trimming it will offer a lot of control,conversely, you could use a air powered die grinder( or electric dremel type tool) with a cut off wheel and trim it. My first option would be the sawzall tho'. In the same train of thought; you could just trim one side and pop the floor in from just one side if ya wanted to . I would use polyester, it is cheaper and epoxy is really for more exotic stuff. ( unless you just want to try it ) Good job so far. Advice: buy only fresh materials, csm over one year will give you trouble ( the glues that binds the fibers together does not want to dissolve from the styrene in the polyester resin), resin over 6 months old can be difficult to work , mekp over 6 months may not activate. another reason to use poly is csm is cheap and cannot be used with epoxy. ( epoxy does not have the styrene that dissolves the binder glue) Have you looked at us composites.com for your materials? they even have the 2 part foam

  7. #7

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Thanks for the input. I think I'm going to try your sawzall idea 1st. I might use it on the stringers too. I found a local boat repair shop that will sell me 5 gallons of polyester Marpro pretty cheap ($137) but I'm not sure of the brand name. They also will also sell me CSM. It's what they use and they have to order it so I guess it would be fresh. At least I can save on shipping if I find a local source. They don't have the 2 part foam so I will be checking at the US Composites site you mentioned.

  8. #8
    Petty Officer 2nd Class
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    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Have you asked them if the resin is waxed or unwaxed ? this is important. check out us comp's resin too. -no relation> blah-blah-blah..

  9. #9

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    I'm behind on pics but I have made some progress. I think hell is grinding on fiberglass in a tyvek suit when it is 90 deg in the shade. Stringers are out. I bought 3/4" marine grade plywood for the transom and the deck. I know it is expensive but the transom is 3/4" and I had to buy a whole sheet so I decided to use it on the deck also and buy a 2nd sheet. The deck was originally only 1/2". I didn't like the idea of voids in the layers and I thought it would be stronger. I am going to use 1708 Biaxial mat from US Composites. The Biaxial is a combo of woven roving and CSM. I am thinking I can:
    1. coat all of the wood with 1 coat of resin
    2. add a layer of Biaxial with more resin.
    3. and then use the 12" wide roll of biaxial for the stringers and where the deck and hull meet. Also at the transom

    I don't care if the deck is perfectly smooth. I am going to paint it with a non skid paint. Does anyone have any comments on using biaxial instead of CSM and roving?

    US Composites Order List
    435 standard Polyester Resin: 5 gal $121
    1708 Knytex Biaxial 17oz; 50" Wide: $8.50 yd
    1708 25yd Roll Biaxial; 12" Wide: $55
    Phenolic Microballons for gap filling.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    The 1708 biaxial is actually csm and cloth sewn together-no woven roving in there. As far as working glass, the difficulty of working it should be a secondary factor as to what it is intended for Ie; is it needed for strength/structural concerns ? or basically cosmetic? . Biax is a little more difficult to work in than csm due to getting the material wetted out quickly enough ( a factor in hotter weather) but it does look nice and strong. A roller( not a paint roller) to remove trapped air is neccassary for the biax. Woven roving is more difficult to use than either biax or csm, Only in the sense that it does not fit into corners near as well ( if at all) . I would get some csm also as there will be places it is needed as well and can be utilized first for build up and then a layer of biax for strength. Csm is better for certain situations like build up/final layers on cosmetic repairs ( but use the biax for the backside of the repair) where the material will be sanded /shaped. Because the biax is sewn, it tends to show the threads when sanded down/shaped. I used only csm to build the area up on my keel that was no longer there( damaged and then had to grind past damage and previous repairs) and built up probally 40/50 layers of csm to rebuild those sections of keel. You will need a torch,oxy actylene or even a propane one will do fine to burn the resin off the roller tool in that seems to always somehow stay on despite your best efforts.

  11. #11

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    I installed the new transom, stringers & flotation foam. Working on fitting deck pieces. Transom has been fiberglassed with CSM and sanded to get ready for paint.

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  12. #12

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Hey Trapper,
    Do boats really need flotation foam? I ask this in somewhat of a rhetorical manner given the two projects I have been through that I have removed waterlogged foam saturated to various degrees. Maybe it is a component of where you boat (ocean, river or lake) to offer some type of protection if a boat is swamped. My two project Century inboard boats (1968 and 1995) both rotted from the inside out. Without this foam, I am sure the stringers and wood floor and structure would have naturally dried out and limited the rot. I pulled the foam out of the 68 and now the 95 (which the moisture was literally locked in by the carpet and soaked marine plywood) with no plans to do any new foam work on either. I see the amazing job you are doing and wonder if the new foam will start the rot process again once wet either by rain or wave.
    Just a thought.

    Steve B
    Steve B
    72 Slickcraft SS165
    95 Century Resorter

  13. #13

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    I don't remember the exact spec but I know the coast guard requires flotation foam on boats up to a certain length (16 ft?). The foam I put in has 60 lbs of flotation per cubic ft. I used enough for 8 cubic feet so I have enough flotation for 480 lbs. Plus I added some pink foam board for extra. The dry weight of my boat is 400 lbs plus you have to add the weight of the out board etc. so my boat should float if it is swamped. If you can't add enough foam to keep your boat & equipment floating if it gets swamped then I probably wouldn't put it in. Keep your restored boat covered and maintained and you won't have to worry about rotten wood and saturated foam. Do a search on foam in the forum for lots of info and opinions.

  14. #14

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    I finished the project in March but I have been fishing a lot so I didn't post the final pictures. I enjoyed the project but I don't think I would do it again.
    I have learned to "Never say Never Again".
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #15
    Moderator Bob_VT's Avatar
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    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Quote Originally Posted by Trapper55 View Post
    I finished the project in March but I have been fishing a lot so I didn't post the final pictures. I enjoyed the project but I don't think I would do it again.
    I have learned to "Never say Never Again".
    Hmmmm, have you been listening to me mumble in my yard I know exactly how you feel. Restoration is allot of work and commitment.
    This is a great link to boat specifications http://boatspecs.iboats.com/
    Please, shop iboats first!!


  16. #16
    Master Chief Petty Officer FBPirate95's Avatar
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    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_VT View Post
    Hmmmm, have you been listening to me mumble in my yard I know exactly how you feel. Restoration is allot of work and commitment.
    Amen.....but as much as it is a frustration, I've come to realize I enjoy it much more than the frustration of thinking about work.

    Btw Trapper, your boat looks great. Good work!

  17. #17

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    I appreciate everyone's comments and help. I just added a Garmin fishfinder and moved the trolling motor to the front of the boat. I'm also thinking about painting the ol 56 Evinrude. I know someone that still works on the old Evinrudes and he told me that Pontiac Blue engine paint is a perfect match. Now if I just get off the river long enough to do the work. I get stressed if I don't get to go fishing at least once a week.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Very nice job Trapper!! I noticed you did leave out the live well--How did you deal with the drain & overflow holes? If I can catch up on my "Money jobs" around here,maybe I can get back to finishing my "T Boy".dude11

  19. #19

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Thanks.
    The only hole was a drain hole. I drilled the plastic pipe out and cut a piece off an old broomstick handle. Sanded it and then smeared sealant all over it and the inside of the hole. After it cured I ground it off flush, fiberglassed it and then painted over it. If I decide to put a live well back in I can just drill it out. I'm thinking about using a big ice chest.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Did you keep the 15hp.that was on it,how'd it do--??Seem like enough engine or will you go any larger?

  21. #21

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    The 15 HP is enough since I usually put the boat in close to where I want to go fishing at. I think a 25 to 35 HP would be better but I don't want to spend the money. The fish don't seem to care how fast I go.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    I understand completely,what I was talking about was,did the 15hp.get you on plane well enough?I never liked removing my hat & glasses just to get there in a "Flash" like some of my buddies do;kinda a "lay-back-lenny" type fisherman myself.dude11

  23. #23
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    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    Quote Originally Posted by Trapper55 View Post
    I installed the new transom, stringers & flotation foam. Working on fitting deck pieces. Transom has been fiberglassed with CSM and sanded to get ready for paint.

    [/IMG]

    [/IMG]

    [/IMG]

    [/IMG]
    good job so far but you mite have a problem with that foam thow it looks like u cut it up to level it off. if any water gets under there the foam will guzzel it up then your back to square one

  24. #24

    Default Re: 14' "TomBoy" restore

    The 15HP moves it fast enough for me but I'm a laid back fisherman also. It comes up on a plane well enough so at least you are not trying to look through the bow sticking up in the air.

    This boat survived 35 years + with 1/3 of the foam I used on it and with only a thin sheet of plywood and fiberglass for the deck. I think it will probably outlast me.

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