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  1. #1

    Default Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    I got myself into a bit of a situation; I did not grow up around boats, even though I live in central MN, but my gal pal and her kid love fishing. I have never seen a 5 year old so into it. Then last year they brought home this boat right out of a horse pasture. It is not in perfect shape, but it isn't bad for $200 including trailer and 35 horse motor that is back from the dead. We replaced the missing rivets so now it floats as well. I noticed some postings for making a new windshield for it, so I might try that soon. But one of our biggest problems is trying to find something about the canopy that used to be on the boat. We can't even find good pictures of one, if someone could help us out, we would be very grateful.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2

    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    OK, I know it has been a while, but I am finally going to actually work on this boat, I have most things removed from it so I can run some new wires so the lights and horn will work, also going to repaint the red and white on it. More importantly going to replace the rotting wood from the transom. I have some oak for the inside for rigidity. Then I will get some plywood for the spacer on the outside. Might also add some plywood to the floor so we don't trip over them ridges on the bottom. Is it worth replacing the old steering cables with an updated steering system? I am excited to get this old thing looking good and back on the water where it belongs. I got a good price on an old lund that we have been using in the meantime.

  3. #3
    Admiral kfa4303's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Hi making. I would not recommend using the oak lumber you have in mind for the transom. A couple pieces of (1/2" -3/4") plywood laminated together is actually stronger than a single piece of oak. You can use the same plywood to build a deck (boats don't have "floors" ) as well. Be sure to put some closed cell foam beneath the decking as well. The pink/blue construction insulation panels work great and are available in a variety of thicknesses from any lowes/HD. There are really only a few rules when it comes to aluminum boats; 1.) NEVER use PRESSURE TREATED wood as it will lead to electrolytic pitting in the hull. 2.) Instead, use non-PT exterior grade plywood (1/2"-3/4") and seal it using either 2-part epoxy, fiberglass mat & resin, or several coats of Spar Urethane. The epoxy and /or f'glass methods work great, but are a little messy and you usually have to order the supplies, which can also be a bit pricey. However, Spar Urethane is readily available at any lowes/HD and works very well. 3.) Mount all wood using STAINLESS STEEL hardware dipped in 3M 5200 marine caulk (also available at Lowes/HD) and/or aluminum pop rivets. 4.) As far as painting goes, simply sand any old paint with 220 grit paper wipe down with acetone, apply a light dusting of Zinc Chromate Self-etching primer (lowes/HD), let dry, apply top coat of your choice. Here's a link to all of the steering supplies you may need too. Holler if you get stuck.

    http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/...x/05/part2.htm

    http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/...x/05/part2.htm

    http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware...g/01/index.htm

    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread....=drum+steering

  4. #4

    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Do it right and keep it original. White oak for the inner transom board with cork sheet backing. Marine ply (7 ply) for the outside transom. See thread above on FD48... for correct way to remove inner board. It's easy to do if you do it the right way the first time. Keep the cable steering especially if you use the older motor. Can't get adequate steering from modern steering systems. Irreversable modifications of older boats decrease their resale value. The original white oak inner transom board is plenty strong on that boat and rated for 60hp. Replacing it with plywood may work OK for a while but it won't look correct and it will rot much faster than solid white oak.




  5. #5

    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    thanks for the thoughts and suggestions. I am however even more unsure now over using the white oak or laminating two pieces of 3/4" plywood for the transom. I am aware of the problems withe treated on aluminum, along with stainless fasteners, but thanks for the rel-iteration. As for sealing the wood I think I am going to go with the spar urethane, simply because of its availability. The steering I am leaving as is, just a couple of pulleys to change out there. The deck I am going to add is just going to be floating, not permanently attached, so I am not sure that adding foam would do much good there. Since the bench seats are not real comfortable, and the clamps they sell for attaching seats do not work well, I am going to go with someone else's idea of strapping some plywood to the benches so I can screw some swivels to it.

    What color stain is appropriate?

    How do I find out color codes for this boat? Anyone know what they are?

  6. #6
    Admiral kfa4303's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Hello again making. This link may help with the color codes.

    http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/Aluma_craft

  7. #7

    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Thank you, I don't know where you guys find this information, but I sure am glad you do.

  8. #8
    Petty Officer 3rd Class mtboatin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    makingthemhappy, Nice boat. I was wondering if you would take some measurements of your frame for the convertible top for me? I just purchased a '56 Deep C and mine has the mounting pivots and the snaps so at one time it had a top. I have no frame and will need to have one built. Any info would be appreciated.

  9. #9
    Petty Officer 3rd Class mtboatin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    No need to take measurements! When I picked up the windshield there was the convertable top frame! Can you tell me what goes between the windshield and the hood of the boat? Wondering if it was a rubber seal or another piece of aluminum frame?

  10. #10
    Petty Officer 3rd Class mtboatin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Lloyd, I just picked up a 1956 Deep C that I'm starting on. Can you describe the cork sheet backing you are speaking of? Also what belongs between the windshield and the deck? Is it a weather strip? I am looking for the bow eye. Mine is broken in half. What is your opinion of attaching single or dual trumpet horn or remote chrome spot light on the bow? Thanks in advance and nice boat by the way.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    There is a thin sheet of cork between the wood on the transom and the aluminum. As for the horns neither are a standard part when the deep C was sold as far as I am understanding, so it is just what ever you like to look at better. congrats on finding a windshield and a frame for the top. There is a rubber seal between the windshield and the "hood" as you called it.
    http://www.fiberglassics.com/glassic...u-channel.html look on here and you can see a clear picture of the of a windshield with a seal if you scroll down a bit.

    Another note, I finally sanded down the paint and pounded out some dents, hopefully either today or tomorrow I can get it to the paint shop. Good luck

  12. #12
    Petty Officer 3rd Class mtboatin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Is this cork that I can buy in a sheet from NAPA for gasket material or special marine stuff?

    Does anyone know whether or not the Deep C came with cushions on the bench base as well as on the seat backs?

  13. #13
    Petty Officer 3rd Class mtboatin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Makingthemhappy, I wonder if you can tell if the gauge pod on your dash is original Alumacraft and if you could take a picture of it and post it on here? My dash is plain except for a couple of holes, one switch and the steering.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    My dash and everywhere on the boat seems to have extra holes, not sure who put them in. As far as I can tell the key and choke on the dash were installed with the motor, not sure if the dealer installed it or alumacraft. The boat has a super sea horse and the "gauge pod" matches it, it does not however have any actual gauges on it. I do have to get some pictures posted soon, I'll work on that. As far as the gasket, I would think the stuff from NAPA would be just find, I have yet to find any other information on it. As far as I can tell the seat backs and cushion were option, not standard issue with this boat.

    On another note, the boat is painted now and the wood is cut for the transom and everywhere else I plan to add some. I am currently staining some and in a couple of days will start the spar varnishing.

  15. #15
    Petty Officer 3rd Class mtboatin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Thanks for the info. Looks good. Keep us updated. I'm planing on having a top made for my factory frame and making new seat backs and probably base cushions that would some how tie or strap on the benches.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    I'm at the bottom of my own project. Going sloooowwwww. Picking up a part here and there, heading oh, so slowly toward the water...
    It has new seats, and the motor ran well until I actually put it in the water. The controls were goofed up and I took apart the box and got them all operational, so now I should be able to start it. Maybe.
    The order of things has gotten adhd for me - now I want to do the steering cables, then paint the motor, get the chrome restored, new steering wheel...on and on. It's hard to get organized since I have no idea what I'm doing. Anyway, pics.IMG_1873.jpgIMG_1877.jpgIMG_1872.jpg

    The whiteface is a "fix" the boat repairman put on. I'd been looking for a faceplate forever, and it's temporary. Found a faceplate, and I'll have it soon.

  17. #17
    Admiral kfa4303's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Hi Leslie. Glad you 're making some progress. Here are some handy links that should help you get the motor up and running. It looks like a '57ish Johnson Javelin 35 hp. If you look on the transom clamp, there should be a little metal tag riveted on there with the serial and model number. Once we have those we can pin it down. In the meantime give these links a look-see. You can get any routine parts you may need right here at iboats.

    http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/...x/24/index.cfm

    http://www.*****************/parts/vi...7702500001.htm

    http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repai...%20Tune-up.htm

    http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repai...%20Tune-UP.htm

  18. #18
    Petty Officer 3rd Class mtboatin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Quote Originally Posted by leslielbk View Post
    I'm at the bottom of my own project. Going sloooowwwww. Picking up a part here and there, heading oh, so slowly toward the water...
    It has new seats, and the motor ran well until I actually put it in the water. The controls were goofed up and I took apart the box and got them all operational, so now I should be able to start it. Maybe.
    The order of things has gotten adhd for me - now I want to do the steering cables, then paint the motor, get the chrome restored, new steering wheel...on and on. It's hard to get organized since I have no idea what I'm doing. Anyway, pics.IMG_1873.jpgIMG_1877.jpgIMG_1872.jpg

    The whiteface is a "fix" the boat repairman put on. I'd been looking for a faceplate forever, and it's temporary. Found a faceplate, and I'll have it soon.
    Leslie, Is yours a Deep C as well? How did you do the lower cushions? Mine came without. Do you have a wood base in them? Did you attach them in some way to the aluminum bench? This is one of my next projects to be done on mine.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    kfa4303, thanks for the encouragement. My faceplate is in the mail, and there might be a steering wheel in my future too. I'll look for the serial & model # and holler back. It's taking alot of time, but I know it'll be worth it, and if weren't for the encouragement found here I would've given up and *gasp* probably sold it. And regretted it the rest of my life.
    mtboatin, It is a deep C. I had an upholsterer do the cushions in the original pattern; look for someone who works with boat seats. They have a wooden base and the vinyl is attached to that. If I'm not mistaken they're held on there by monster velcro; when I go down there to find the info on my motor I'll take another look for you. Do you have seat backs? If you don't now the boat did come with them. Look for a little moveable bracket alongside the bench - that's where they mount, and they fold forward so you can climb around without killing yourself. I manage to do that anyway

  20. #20
    Admiral kfa4303's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Thanks for the update leslie. When/if you ever decide to sell the motor (parish the thought), let the folks here in the forums know and/or place a WTB ad on aomci.org. Those old Javelins have kind of a cult following with lots of folks willing to pay a decent amount for a complete motor with good compression, even if it isn't necessarily running.

    I see you're in Longboat. I'm way up in the frozen North of Tallahassee

  21. #21
    Petty Officer 3rd Class mtboatin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Quote Originally Posted by leslielbk View Post
    kfa4303, thanks for the encouragement. My faceplate is in the mail, and there might be a steering wheel in my future too. I'll look for the serial & model # and holler back. It's taking alot of time, but I know it'll be worth it, and if weren't for the encouragement found here I would've given up and *gasp* probably sold it. And regretted it the rest of my life.
    mtboatin, It is a deep C. I had an upholsterer do the cushions in the original pattern; look for someone who works with boat seats. They have a wooden base and the vinyl is attached to that. If I'm not mistaken they're held on there by monster velcro; when I go down there to find the info on my motor I'll take another look for you. Do you have seat backs? If you don't now the boat did come with them. Look for a little moveable bracket alongside the bench - that's where they mount, and they fold forward so you can climb around without killing yourself. I manage to do that anyway
    Thanks for the reply. Yes mine has the foldable seat backs on the front two benches. Wouldn't mind adding one to the third/back bench some day if I could locate the assembly.

    Mine has a 1974 50 hp Evenrude that makes her get up go nicely. I would eventually like to find a vintage 35-60 hp to put on her.

  22. #22
    Petty Officer 3rd Class mtboatin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Lautner View Post
    Do it right and keep it original. White oak for the inner transom board with cork sheet backing. Marine ply (7 ply) for the outside transom. See thread above on FD48... for correct way to remove inner board. It's easy to do if you do it the right way the first time. Keep the cable steering especially if you use the older motor. Can't get adequate steering from modern steering systems. Irreversable modifications of older boats decrease their resale value. The original white oak inner transom board is plenty strong on that boat and rated for 60hp. Replacing it with plywood may work OK for a while but it won't look correct and it will rot much faster than solid white oak.



    Loyd,

    I'm sure you get it all the time but that is one good looking boat!!

    Any negatives to putting 10 more horses on there then recommended? Is weight an issue with the twin power plant? It really looks good and has gotten me thinking..... It looks like '58 Javelins? Did they offer them in a 25-30 hp?

    I also noticed your transom tie down eyes. Are they 3/8" or 1/2"? Would you recommend a different position then where yours are if attempting to ski or pull a tube?

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